ONTARIO SPARKLERS
The cold, dark lingering nights of late winter may seem to offer few incentives to celebrate to the tune of French Champagne. That’s why DAVID LAWRASON recommends that you forget the champers and pop less expensive sparklers from Ontario, a province that understands cold.
Illustration by Julia Tiller
How about a flute of racy bubbly after a day on the slopes or an end-of-season skate on the canal? Or while nestling by the fire with a plate of shrimp and smoked salmon. A handful of wineries in Prince Edward County now have sparkling wine on stream and there is a growing attention in Niagara as well. The cool climate and limestone riddled soils of the Lake Ontario basin are outstanding for serious sparkling wine made from Champagne’s main grapes — pinot noir and chardonnay. (I predict Ontario will become globally famous for such wines within a generation.) Yet there is also a sense of fun and adventure at play, with new techniques (see Hinterland below), new grape varieties (see Angels Gate), new styles (Huff Vidalescco), and even new “crown cap” closures (Flat Rock). Unfortunately, acquiring these wines is not always as simple as running out to the LCBO; nor may you want to venture to the wineries themselves on a blustery winter weekend. But wineries can, and do, deliver if you order by phone or through their websites, and they would be delighted and surprised to hear from you.
ANGELS GATE 2008 ARCHANGEL SAUVIGNON BLANC SPARKLING
$20 / Beamsville Bench / 89 points
Part of an adventurous new line of varietal bubblies by Angels Gate, this engaging sauvignon blanc successfully catches herbal sauvignon nuances among honeyed grapefruit, guava, and white flowers on the nose and palate. It’s light-bodied, frothy, and semi-sweet, but built on solid acidity. Chill well and serve with spicy canapés. www.angelsgatewinery.com
