Articles Tagged ‘Hintonburg restaurants’

WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: A delightful club sandwich at Hintonburg Public House (shame about the price)

HPH’s club sandwich is a superior rendition of the classic — well seasoned, incredibly moist chicken, with yummy bacon, tomato, lettuce, a full flavoured aioli on lightly toasted white bread.

By Anne DesBrisay

Although it’s been a few years since the culinary gentrification of this corner of the city began in earnest, it still must be startling for Hintonburg’s old timers to see the steady flow of well-dressed uptowners stopping in for a bite — to see Volvos where Volvos never parked before.

I’m trying to remember the order of things. It seems to me Tennessy Willems, Burnt Butter, Alpha Soul, and Back Lane launched the foodie revolution in this hood. Then came this place, the Hintonburg Public House, shortly thereafter in late 2011.

I have been a few times to the HPH for an evening meal, but hadn’t stopped in for lunch. So I found a friend — whose Volvo has heated seats necessary for an unneccessarily cold day in June — and remedied this.

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WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: From Hintonburg Public House’s new menu: French Onion Soup that would make Julia proud

The tasty union of bread, onions and cheese sing in sweet harmony at Hintonburg Public House

I’m so tired of talking about the weather. Can we talk about French Onion Soup for a minute?

In Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Julia Child taught a generation of home cooks about the importance of the very long caramelization of onions that carries Soupe à L’Oignon Gratinée — 2 ½ hours, at least, from start to finish.

Yet too often when I order this cheese-crowned darling in a restaurant, I want to weep into my ramekin at the sight of pale stringy onions that have yet to develop any of the rich, rustic sweetness of their caramelized cousins.

“The onions need a long, slow cooking in butter and oil, then a long, slow simmering in stock for them to develop the deep, rich flavour which characterizes a perfect brew,” writes Julia.

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TREND ALERT: Go gourmet with these pogos that are a grown-up version of the childhood staple

By Shawna Wagman

Brut Cantina Sociale serves up signature pogos with a house sausage made from duck confit and foie gras. Photo by Photoluxstudio.com-Christian Lalonde.

When Hintonburger opened in 2010, it was the first time in at least 30 years that I had seen a batter-dipped hot dog on a stick outside of the grocer’s freezer. I thought it was pretty clever that the burger shack was making them fresh, from scratch, rather than serving the frozen ready-made Pogo brand many of us devoured as kids. Not wanting to deprive my daughter of the experience, I ordered a Fat Cat corn dog for her and watched her eyes light up with glee as she gripped the stick in her tiny hand and dunked the whole monstrosity in ketchup before gnawing away at the thick deep-fried coating and the steaming wiener within.

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OPENING: Introducing The Hintonburg Public House

The new HPH is like going to your aunt's house; if your aunt was a hipster and her kitchen was open until 2 am.

Everyone knows Hintonburg is gentrifying. The strip of Wellington once known for sex shops, seedy bars, and used appliances is slowly giving way to trendy knitting supplies, iPads, cupcakes, and thin-crust pizza. For now, the two ends of the spectrum seem to coexist in harmony. It’s a hungry hipster’s dream come true.

The Hintonburg Public House, the latest addition to what is quickly becoming the city’s new restaurant row might be called a gastropub — if that name wasn’t already taken. And so owner Summer Baird chose to go with another name for the neighbourhood watering hole that places an equal emphasis on locally sourced “comfort food” and creative bar snacks. While Baird, who formerly co-owned and cooked at The Urban Pear, was trained at Stratford Chefs School, she has no plans to work in the kitchen. Instead, she hired Kris Kshonze, former sous-chef at the Whalesbone, a chef she trusts to carry out her vision for food that is high quality but simple —“nothing is overdone,” she says.

Cured trout with brussel sprouts, pickled beets and capers

The compact menu, available all day long, is priced to please with items from $2 (pickled eggs) but not more than $22 (duck confit). There are local micro brews and a mostly-Canadian wine list at a price-point designed to encourage lingering and frequent visits. On the menu there’s a mix of familiar crowd-pleasers like burgers, wings, and fish and chips, but there’s also a handful of more creative bistro-style plates (I enjoyed the stunning cured trout adorned with brussel sprout leaves and a tiny dice of pickled beets with smashed capers), including a couple of appealing vegetarian options (squash galette; mushroom and kale sandwich).

White bean soup with garlic confit and croutons

After recovering from the shocking news that the HPH (as it calls itself) stays open until 2 a.m.! 7 nights a week! I wanted to put my finger on what else makes this place feel so different from other eateries. In some ways, the new Hintonburg Public House feels like a bit of a mash-up of its newbie neighbours — the refreshingly feminine vintage French country vibe felt at Back Lane Cafe, the polished but accessible bistro feel of Burnt Butter, the artsy night-owl’s neighbourhood hangout of the Alpha Soul Café.

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FROM THE PRINT EDITION: Great food finds from the Middle East and Africa

As part of our Think Global, Eat Local feature, we bring you the tastes of the Middle East and Africa

Middle East and Africa

AU COIN DU MAROC

Photography by Photoluxstudio.com - Christian Lalonde

 

MIDDLE EAST AND AFRICA

HAUTE OPTION

AU COIN DU MAROC
Addictive North African cuisine
By Cindy Deachman

Aguida Bakka tells stories like there’s no tomorrow. Stories about her past life in Casablanca 30 years ago, meeting Abdou, now her husband, at school. Stories about her prêt-à-porter business, tearing around Europe buying for her clothing stores. Stories about the couple’s three children. Also their three restaurants, including the present one in Gatineau, Au coin du Maroc. She reminisces about growing up in Casablanca.

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OPENING: Tennessy Willems, Hintonburg’s much-anticipated wood oven pizza place is on fire

Real wood oven pizza is here! Isn't she beautiful?

If you mention pizza to a Toronto foodie you’ll hear one of two names: Libretto or Terroni.

Well lucky for us, the pizza-maker who worked the ovens making those illustrious pies fell in love and moved to Ottawa. He is now tossing Neapolitan-inspired pizzas (round, thin crust, top ingredients, blistered by the fire) at Tennessy Willems, a brand new pizza place in Hintonburg that opened its doors today. Excited to see what all the buzz was about, I was among the first to stop in and check out the next contender for “real” pizza (sorry Ottawa-style pizza) in town.

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