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Articles Tagged ‘food’

OPENING: Ottawa Farmers’ Market launches satellite location at Bayshore Mall on August 3

Ottawa Farmers' Market launches satellite locations -- coming to a neighbourhood near you

The number of farmers’ markets in the Ottawa area seems to be multiplying faster than the Art-Is-in Bakery stall sells out of cinnamon buns on a Sunday morning. Which is to say — fast!

Last night Linda Cook, the Market Manager for the Ottawa Farmers’ Market at Lansdowne Park told me they have been quietly preparing to launch their second satellite location, and more locations are in the works. A market was set up in Orleans last year, and now a small 13-vendor market will be erected in the parking lot of Bayshore Mall on August 3. Cook says Westboro might be next.

The Bayshore location is a six-week pilot project that was initiated by the shopping centre management. “They approached us and asked us about setting up a market,” says Cook. “They had been getting requests from visitors but also from staff and neighbours for fresh food.” She says there are currently no food stores in Bayshore and the closest full-service grocery store is 6-7 km away. [Though the offerings are not necessarily local, fresh produce lovers should note that the city's newest Farm Boy location is just 2.5 km away at 1495 Richmond Rd.]

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Five bakeries worth the drive

By Laura Byrne Paquet

Just because you’re heading to the country for a bit of rural R&R doesn’t mean you have to go without fancy mustards, artisanal sausages, or excellent cheeses. From dairies and duck farms to bistros and smokehouses, back roads are filled with destinations for the adventurous gourmet. Just one word of advice: call ahead, as hours (particularly for farm-based shops) change frequently.

Over the next few weeks, we’ll post listings for these small operations, many of which are seasonal. Please keep in mind that farmers are usually juggling a lot of other duties besides the shop. A sign at the Elk Ranch in Carp advises visitors to ring the bell for service but to be patient: “We’re raising four kids and over 80 elks!”

We’d love to hear from you: do you have a favourite bakery? Please share your finds in our comments section.

Kilmarnock Orchard
Technically, it’s much more than a bakery. For starters, you can pick your own apples here in season, and you can buy jams, jellies, cider, and more. But the star attractions, at least for me, are the baked goods: fresh apple pie, apple bread, apple cookies, and apple cakes. The caramel apple pie is outstanding. Getting there is half the fun — you either drive along one of the prettiest country roads in eastern Ontario or moor your boat at the nearby Kilmarnock Lock on the Canal and take a walk up the hill. Open mid-August to mid-October. 1182 Kilmarnock Rd., Jasper, 613-284-9843 (in season), 613-283-8964, www.kilmarnockorchard.ca.

Try the luscious fruit pies at Pan Chancho Bakery in Kingston.

Little Stream Bakery
Since 1992, the folks at Little Stream have been baking ultra-healthy breads. The current bakery is housed in a converted dairy about six kilometres west of Perth. It’s not a fancy place — the shop is appended to the big kitchen, which supplies health-food stores from Sault Ste. Marie to Halifax — but the service is friendly, and the yeast-free breads are seriously sturdy. A sandwich made from the dense millet flax loaf, for instance, will fill you up for hours. Spelt, kamut, and gluten-free breads are available; shoppers with a sweet tooth can get organic cookies, spelt carrot cake, and vegan apple turnovers, among other treats.    667 Glen Tay Rd., Perth, 613-267-9712, www.littlestream.com.

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FROM THE PRINT EDITION: Spicy ideas to take your barbecue up a notch

Saucy ideas for DIY Barbecuers

Textural spice rubs from Red Apron can be used wet or dry. Photography by Brooke Charlebois.

Red Apron’s House Rubs
Southern Style BBQ Spice Rub, Organic Cocoa Spice Rub, Flavours of East India Spice Rub. Is your mouth watering yet? The Red Apron has developed a series of fine spice rubs (and, bonus, they’ve also written up a cheat sheet with recipes that you likely never considered). Use the rubs dry or wet. Try mixing the Southern BBQ Rub with a bit of oil and some apple cider vinegar to create an intense brush-on sauce, or combine the East India rub with yogourt for a great chicken marinade. The list goes on and on. They even suggest adding the rubs to your basic vinaigrette and tossing it on a salad. $4.95/100 g. Red Apron, 564 Gladstone Ave., 613-321-0417, www.redapron.ca.

BBQ Stu’s Pennsylvania Gold
As soon as he tasted them, Mike Pilon was sold. The owner of Romantic Fireplaces and BBQs recently became the Canadian distributor for BBQ Stu’s, a line of four sauces out of, yes, Pennsylvania. Pilon is especially hyped on Stu’s Pennsylvania Gold, a unique mustard-based barbecue and dipping sauce that pairs perfectly with ham and pork. Better still, it’s gluten- and fat-free. $10.99/395 g. Romantic Fireplaces and BBQs, 5929 Jeanne D’Arc Blvd., 613-834-1777, www.romanticfireplaces.com.

Ultra Hot Mad Dog All Natural Ghost Pepper BBQ Sauce
When asked what’s hot for summer, Chilly Chile’s owner Alison Steele-Myers replies, “Everyone’s talking about the ghost pepper, which is twice as hot as a habanero.” But, she notes, heat without flavour is pointless. That’s where the Mad Dog recommendation comes in. This sauce, says Steele-Myers, packs heat and flavour  — an intensely delicious sauce that works on all kinds of meats. $8.95/12 oz. Chilly Chiles, 1226 Colonial Rd., Navan, 613-835-9173, www.chillychiles.com.

BEST OF SUMMER EXTRAS: Throw your own Mad Men dinner party!

You’ll have t0 wait a little longer for the next season of Mad Men (some are suggesting February 2012!). But just because the show won’t be starting up again this summer doesn’t mean you can’t still hold that Season 5 party you were planning. In the Summer 2011 edition of Ottawa Magazine, writer Daniel Drolet’s “TV Dinner” column gives a step-by-step guide to throwing a 1960s dinner party that would make Betty Draper proud. Here are the recipes:

A Mad Men-inspired cocktail bar. Photography by Rémi Thériault.

Drinks:

We offered guests a choice of martini or a Manhattan, a cocktail popular in the 1960s.

Manhattans are made with two parts rye whisky to one part sweet red vermouth.

Combine in a cocktail shaker with ice, add a drop or two of Angostura bitters. Stir well to chill.

Serve in an old-fashioned glass garnished with a maraschino cherry.

Appetizers:

A. Shrimp in Ice Ring (Chatelaine Cookbook, page 44)
Nothing more than shrimps on ice, but visually it’s very arresting!

Add a few drops of blue or green food colouring to water (I used blue) and pour into a six-cup ring mould. Set in freezer overnight. Unmold by running cold water over the inverted mould. Place on a deep tray and replace in freezer until serving time. Surround the base of the mould with daisies or pale yellow chrysanthemums. Fill centre with two 12-ounce packages of frozen cleaned shrimps that have been cooked according to package directions and thoroughly chilled. Serve with tangy cocktail sauce and lemon wedges.

WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Lamb kafta made by the grill master at Les Grillades

Expertly grilled meats are the house specialty at Les Grillades. This place is warm and generous in every way.

The Place: When I walked in at 11:30 a.m., Les Grillades, the warm-hearted family-run Lebanese restaurant on Holland Avenue, was empty. But by noon it was packed. It may feel like a secret hideaway, perched high above the street next to Allium, but clearly the secret is out. Ask anyone who works at Tunney’s Pasture and I imagine this is the first place they’d mention if you ask for the fastest, friendliest, and freshest place for lunch in the area.

The Deal: Until this visit, I’d only ever been to Les Grillades for dinner. My dedication to the charcoal-grilled de-boned whole chickens was already firmly established. I discovered many of the lunchtime regulars skip menus and table service and instead line up at the counter to order pita-wrapped sandwiches and either take it to go or seat themselves at a table, cafeteria-style: a surefire way to shave a few minutes off the dining experience. I took the option to sit at a table and order off the complete menu. No matter what you order, prepare for a feast with all sorts of extra goodies included.

The Dish: The lentil soup is irresistible, though totally unnecessary given how much food comes with the main dishes. Squeeze the fresh lemon and drop a few crispy pita chips over the top of the cumin-kissed purée and tell me if there is a more satisfying, soothing soup around. Next, the condiments arrive: a dish of excellent humus with plenty of fresh quartered pita, hot pink pickled radishes, and some potent eyebrow-raising garlic sauce. The lamb kafta consists of two large kebabs packed with fresh parsley and garlic, grilled to perfection. Golden-hued rice, zesty-dressed salad, and a grilled wedge of tomato complete a dish that could easily serve two hungry people.

Hours: Open for Lunch Tuesday – Friday from 11 a.m.

Les Grillades, 85 Holland Avenue, 613-792-3224.

THE DISH: Juniper’s Richard Nigro strikes out on his own

Richard Nigro says he won't give up cooking now that he's no longer in the kitchen at Juniper.

I know I am not the only one who was curious about Richard Nigro’s conspicuous absence from Juniper’s Duelling Chef’s dinners this year. Nigro is the founding chef of Juniper, and co-owner of the restaurant along with Norm Aitken and Peter Robblee. Recently, I noticed that Nigro’s photo and bio had disappeared from the Juniper website, which confirmed my suspicions: he is no longer working there.

So what’s the story? It depends who you ask.

According to Nigro, who appeared hurt and befuddled when the topic came up over tea at Nectar, his partners Aitken and Robblee “determined that they no longer want me to be in the business.” In other words, he was ousted. Without offering much detail, Nigro characterized the situation as “unfriendly” and “immoral.” He also mentioned there were legal issues yet to be resolved.

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WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: pretty spring salad and a tuna melt from Zest Café in Hull

Zest, a new caterer-café in Hull, ushers in spring with a salad full of snap

The Place: Open for just seven months, Zest is the latest small home-based catering company to take the leap into a retail location. Situated on the main commercial drag in Old Hull that was last occupied by another catering café (Delish) Zest aims to tantalize the lunch crowd while workshopping new recipes for the other side of the biz. The space is fresh and inviting — painted that irresistible lemon-lime colour that seems to whet the appetite. The (presumed) owner says he hopes the nicer weather will draw more government workers out of their office towers at noon. Business must not be as busy as he’d hoped. Which is a shame. After my first visit to Zest, I can already tell I’d be a regular if I worked nearby.

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OPENING: Alex’s Bread brings crusty loaves to the Glebe via Venezuela

Norma and Alejandro (Alex) sell German-style Landbrot at their family-run bakery in the Glebe.

When I walked into Alex’s Bread & Deli, the Glebe’s sparkling new bakery and café, I was greeted with one of the warmest smiles I’ve seen in a long time. Norma Calzadilla was beaming with pride about the crusty loaves, fresh- baked muffins, and pastries created by her husband Alejandro (Alex). “Everything is made from scratch with good healthy seasonal products,” she says.

Norma tells me they ran a bakery in Venezuela for 10 years before moving to Halifax with their three children. When two of their kids ended up going to university in the capital, they decided to move to Ottawa. “We loved Halifax, but we decided to come with them,” she says. “We are a close family.”

Their son, a cellist, is in the music program at University of Ottawa, while their daughter studies psychology at Carleton. A second daughter is in Grade 11. The whole family helps out in the bakery, an elegantly simple space punctuated with one beautiful abstract painting. When I ask Norma about the eye-catching work of art, she flashes another proud smile — the artist is her father-in-law.

The menu so far is pretty standard, but I’m assured it is evolving: at lunchtime she serves sandwiches (roast beef, chickpeas, chicken salad, and grilled veggies), but the chalkboard menu from Saturday’s salad offerings reveals greater creativity: there’s a fennel, feta, and pomegranate salad, as well as arugula salad with figs and pecorino.

From the bakery I sampled a dark chocolate brownie, which was almost black in appearance. Biting into it, I found the chewy, moist treat was pleasantly, though surprisingly, salty rather than sweet. That same play on savouriness is found in the large golden corn muffin (a nod, perhaps, to Venezuelan cuisine where cornmeal dough is common), with its crunchy golden exterior and only slight hint of sweetness.

Then there’s the Landbrot, the large rustic round country loaf that is typical in Northern Germany. It is made with a combination of wheat and rye flour. The bread was still warm from the oven when I got it home and sliced it up for sandwiches. It had a great crusty exterior and soft, moist, almost cakey, interior with an earthy, slightly tangy flavour.

Alex’s has only been open two weeks, but Norma says they’ve already been embraced by the community. “We feel welcome here.”

Alex’s Bread & Deli, 873 Bank St., 
613-421-7613.

WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Town’s Fior di Latte sandwich (translation: really good grilled cheese)

Sometimes a sandwich can be sublime. This riff on a Caprese reminds us that there are a world of sandwich fillings beyond deli meats, avocado, and bacon.

A French friend of mine returned from extensive travel in the US and remarked: “Those people eat nothing but sandwiches!” She might as well have said “dog food” for all of her contempt for the sloppy, soulless excuses-for-a-meal. I appreciate her point. Often sandwiches are nothing more than a vehicle — the fastest way to ingest a random assortment of representatives from several food groups and get on with your day.

It doesn’t happen often, but every once and a while I come across a sandwich that reminds me that a well-crafted one can be pretty sublime. Such is the deceptively simple grilled cheese and tomato sandwich at Town.

The Place: Town has quickly become one of the hottest dinner reservations in (ahem) town, so if you haven’t booked ahead and devouring meatballs at 10:30 pm isn’t your thing, it’s good to know that some of the same menu can be experienced at lunchtime on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. In addition to a choice of four different fresh sandwiches, the lunch menu offers all of the evening menu’s appetizers (chicken liver crostini, gnudi etc.), plus a pair of daily pasta specials and those magnificent desserts in Mason jars (you have tried the chocolate budino, no?) as well as the popular chicken under a brick.

The Dish: The heart and soul of this sandwich is lovely thick slices of spongy fresh Fior di latte, a soft, moist, and milky tasting type of mozzarella. In this case, it happens to come from Toronto’s International Cheese (and it’s available by the ball at La Bottega, by the way). Next are the Roma tomatoes that have been rubbed with salt, pepper, and sugar and roasted for 3-4 hours with thyme and shallots until meltingly tender, sweet, and juicy without being wet or sloppy. Its fresh flavours have been transformed into luscious umami flavour. Add to that the beautiful sweet herbaceous perfume of basil purée and the chewiness and crunch of Art-Is-In’s 12-grain & fennel bread, all of it warmed gently on the panini press. And the side dishes are no afterthought: delicate citrusy arugula salad and whole fingerling potatoes that have been boiled and slightly crushed, dusted with crumbled pecorino and a touch of chili oil and rosemary, then fried to crisp golden perfection.

Ultimately, this sandwich is even greater than the sum of its parts. I think even my French friend would love it.

Town, 296 Elgin St.,
 613-695-8696, http://townlovesyou.ca/

Lunch: Wednesday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. – 2 p.m.

FOOD BUZZ: Truffle Treasures chocolatier delivers extreme sugar buzz to adventurers

Lara Vaarré's new line of power bars were inspired by world adventurers with a taste for extreme sweets

It all started with the triathletes who would come into Truffle Treasures asking for the shop’s famous giant chocolate peanut butter cups. These are people whose exercise regimens are so rigorous, they apparently seek ways to maximize their intake of calories, protein, and fat just to keep from losing weight. It’s a problem I can’t say I relate to so forgive me while I feign sympathy.

For Lara Vaarré, the owner of the sweet shop, it opened up a new avenue for her truffles. A path that led to the South Pole.

One day a couple of years ago, a pair of rather famous travel adventurers, Meagan McGrath (the first Canadian Woman to do the Seven Summits) and Shawn Dawson (who is in the midst of a climb to Kilimanjaro, the final leg of his Seven Summit Quest) walked into Vaarré’s Westboro location and introduced themselves. A friendly conversation led to the unlikely partnership: extreme mountain-climbing and chocolate truffles.

Packed with fat and sugar and easy to pop in your mouth anywhere, anytime, chocolate truffles seemed like an ideal food for these athletes. Vaarré was willing to customize the treats, designing them to replenish calories quickly as well as making them easier to pack, carry, and consume.

Today, there is a map posted at the Glebe location of Truffle Treasures displaying everywhere its chocolate has landed. Vaarré says nobody believes that her truffles travelled to the South Pole.

“It blows my mind what these people do!” exclaims Vaarré who speaks at the clip of someone on a permanent sugar buzz. “This is my way of getting to be part of the adventure.”

Earlier this year, Vaarré began developing another product line for the trio of chocolate-loving adventurers she now officially sponsors. (The third is Ray Zahab, an ultramarathon runner based in Chelsea, Quebec who made history, along with 2 others, by running across the entire Sahara Desert.) Chocolate truffles are great in cold temperatures but the chocolatier understood that the climbers needed something less likely to melt when travelling in hot destinations. Her new line of Power Bars was born.

Using a base of oats, honey, butter and molasses, Vaarré has been experimenting since Valentine’s Day with all kinds of flavour options for her power bars: ginger, coconut, and macadamia nut; dates, almonds, and cacao (not to be confused with cocoa); as well as mixing in superfoods like flax and chia seed. There is, of course, good quality chocolate in all of them.

She says it has taken a lot of testing and sampling to get them to be an ideal texture: very soft and chewy without being overly sticky. While she says she had no intention of selling them in the shop, they appear to have struck a nerve with her regular customers. Whenever she made a batch for the athletes, she would put out a plate of the trimmings at the front of the shop. “People went crazy,” she says. The aptly named Ray Zahab Power Bars are now for sale at the Westboro location.

But a word of warning: they are not for the faint of heart.

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