Shep Ysselstein, the owner and operator of Gunn's Hill Artisan Cheese has partnered with Beau's to make a beer washed-rind cheese that will change with the seasons .

I guess the monks in the Middle Ages knew something that many of us are just starting to figure out: beer and cheese taste great together.

Back in the day, artisan monks brewed beer and made cheese in monasteries for their communities. Typically washed rind cheeses are bathed in saltwater brine; the washing helps break down the curd from the outside. It’s fun to imagine the day the monks discovered that they could use beer to wash the rinds of cheese during the aging process to influence the texture, aroma, and flavour of the cheese.

Flash-forward to today, to a small cheese plant near Woodstock Ontario, where the next chapter in the history of beer washed-rind cheese is being written.

There, 30-year-old Shep Ysselstein, of Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese (located on his family’s third-generation dairy farm nestled in the rolling hills of Gunn’s Hill Rd. in Oxford County, Ontario — the Dairy Capital of Canada), has been working over the past few months to create a cheese using Vankleek Hill’s beloved brew, Beau’s.

Beau's Beaver River--it's spring seasonal beer will be featured on the first batch of the new cheese that will be unveiled at the Great Canadian Cheese Festival

Ysselstein admits most small-scale cheesmakers don’t bother with washed-rind varieties because the process is laborious; it’s all done by hand. “We wash it every day and keep it moist so that more bacteria grows and the cheese gets more of the beer flavour.”

For Steve Beauchesne, Beau’s co-founder, the partnership is an opportunity to help more people make the connection. “Not enough people are onto the beer and cheese pairing yet and it’s one of the most exciting things about beer right now.”

The test batch began with Gunn’s Hill Oxford’s Harvest cheese, a semi-soft mild and creamy cheese washed with Beau’s Bog Water. For the next batch, Ysselstein switched to Beaver River, Beau’s award-winning IPA, described by Beauchesne as a relatively bitter beer with a nice caramel malty backbone and hop aroma. “Shep wanted a beer with a bold enough character — the flavours need to be bold enough to transfer over.” The idea is that Ysselstein will work with each of Beau’s seasonal beers — Festivale in the summer, for instance — creating a truly seasonal cheese.

Georgs Kolesnikovs, the engine behind what has become the largest cheese show in Canada — The Great Canadian Cheese Festival — says this is big news in the world of artisan cheesemaking: it’s the first collaboration between an Ontario cheesemaker and an Ontario beer maker. He is delighted that the yet-to-be-named cheese will be unveiled at the festival on June 1 and 2.

The cheese will then be released at Farm Boy stores across the city in conjunction with craft beer week (June 16th), but the first place to get a taste will be at the Cheese Festival in Picton.

Kolesnikovs can’t help himself from gushing about the young cheesemaker who “came out of nowhere” and is already winning awards for his Alpine-style cheese. He recently took top honours in the firm cheese category in the annual Dairy Farmers of Canada Canadian Cheese Grand Prix.

Ysselstein has only been at it for a year and a half. He took cheesemaking classes at the University of Guelph and then the University of Vermont before going to upstate New York to work at a small cheese factory for three months. From there was given the opportunity to make cheese in Switzerland using techniques passed down for centuries, where cows are sent from the valley up into the mountains and milked morning and night.

Now, running his own artisan cheese plant, he is freed from the task of milking (the milk comes from his parents’ farm, where cows roam outside in the summertime) to concentrate on making great cheese. He appears to genuinely love it. The fact that he has to bring beer to work every day now is just a bonus.

Details: The yet-to-be named Beau’s beer washed cheese will be available for sampling at the third annual The Great Canadian Cheese Festival: June 1 and 2; 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.; Crystal Palace at the Picton Fairgrounds in Picton, Ontario, in the heart of  Prince Edward County.

Tickets: Tickets can be purchased in advance online. Cost is $40 for a one day pass; $55 for a two-day pass. 

The post CRAFT BEER + ARTISAN CHEESE: Beau’s partners with Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese to create a new beer-washed rind cheese — just in time for the Great Canadian Cheese Festival appeared first on Ottawa Magazine.

Great news! The cheese curds will be back.

As I placed a handful of those smooth rubbery nubs—St. Albert’s cheese curds—into my daughter’s lunch box this morning, I realized how ubiquitous that label with the elongated cartoon cow has become in my life.

I confess I have been feeling rather smug since discovering that the blocks of St. Albert’s medium cheddar, a staple in my fridge, is sold at my local drug store for at least a dollar cheaper than I’ve seen it anywhere else. Not much of a bargain-hunter normally, it always gives me a thrill.

But yesterday the gut-wrenching news came about a fire that gutted the St. Albert Cheese Factory in the village of St. Albert southeast of Ottawa. A gasp of grief could be heard across the region and beyond. Its squeaky curds have become synonymous with poutine, and a short-hand for quality for the purveyors who advertise the cheese by name.

I am not the only one who was relieved to hear the reports that the factory will indeed be rebuilt. The factory’s former general manager has even guaranteed that the annual Festival de La Curd held in August — now in its 20th year — will take place as scheduled.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I’m off the drug store to stock up.

Read the full report in the Ottawa Citizen

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When you name your cheese, Manchebello — a sweet, mellow sheep’s milk cheese made in nearby Montebello, Quebec — the comparisons to Manchego are inevitable.

But according to the website of the Fromagerie Montebello, the cheese factory started last year by Alain Boyer and Guy Boucher in Montebello village, the “Manche” actually refers to the European sea inlet between France and England. It does not appear to borrow its name from the famous aged sheep’s milk cheese — Manchego — made in the La Mancha region of Spain. Au contraire, it’s a very “local” story.

The factory website states: “This arm of the sea separates and unites at the same time the two countries that have colonized Lower and Upper Canada in the old days. The word “Manche” refers to those two countries that are part of our past. It also reminds us of the importance of our great Outaouais River that also separates and unites Quebec and Ontario.”

Whether or not its name is an obvious nod to Manchego, Manchebello cheese is already adored by Chef Steve Mitton who shaves it over a smoked elk heart carpaccio at his restaurant, Murray Street. Mitton admits he couldn’t help but make the same association I did. He says it’s sort of like Manchego, “in its young stage now.” Official Manchego cheese is aged for between 60 days and two years, while Manchebello is ripened from 60 days up to 6 months.

No matter how you slice it, it’s delicious. The sweet, milky flavour is lovely and unique. Local cheese at its best.

In an age when UNESCO is busy attaching cultural heritage status to cheeses like feta and parmesan with their countries of origin, it’s probably wise to chalk up any similarities to mere coincidence.

Fromagerie Montebello also makes two cow’s milk cheeses: a creamy blue called Rébellion 1837 and a hard cheese, Tête à Papineau. All of its cheeses are made with Petite Nation milk.

Fromagerie Montebello, 687-A rue Notre-Dame
, Montebello, Québec, 819 309-0541.

The cheese is available at il Negozio Nicastro (792 Bank St.  and 1355 Wellington St. W.; $7.70/100g), La Bottega (64 George St.) as well as on the menu at Murray Street (110 Murray Street).

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Jeff and Jenna Fenwick are the new owners of Back Forty Artisan Cheese, located in Lanark Highlands.

Local favourite Back Forty Artisan Cheese has two new owners at the helm: Jeff and Jenna Fenwick. Founded on a small sheep farm in 1999 by James Keith and his late wife Elizabeth Harker, the business grew into a favourite amongst cheese lovers and became a leading producer in Ontario. City Bites spoke with Jeff about taking over the business and where Back Forty is heading.

What did you do for a living before taking over the cheese business?
I’ve had a variety of sales and sales management positions specializing in water treatment, organic and free range foods, and most recently I was the Director of Admissions for a large private college. I’m also a professional motorcycle racer and have enjoyed many years travelling and competing in Canada. My passion has always been quality food and cooking great meals for family and friends to enjoy.

Where does your interest in cheese-making come from?
I don’t have a farming background. But I grew up on some acreage on the outskirts of Guelph and was always surrounded by farm lands and nature.

I’ve always had a strong interest in cooking. My wife and I enjoy the slower pace of preparing a large meal, growing  vegetables, preserving and, of course, eating quality foods. I like creating things, especially for my friends and loved ones to enjoy.

How did you learn about the sale of Back Forty and what was involved in making the decision to take it over?
I became aware of the sale of Back Forty Artisan Cheese through my in-laws, whom reside in the Perth area.  They saw the advertisement in the local paper and brought it to our attention as they knew we were looking for a change and right away thought this would be a great fit. At the time I was involved in a high-stress management position for a very large U.S. Corporation and was in desperate need of making a lifestyle change. For years I had been saving to start up my own venture and looking into opportunities, restaurants, cafes, etc., that would allow for self-employment and complement my passion for food. The decision to purchase Back Forty was simple. It seemed as though the stars had aligned and everything just fell into place. I set up a meeting with Jim and drove up from Hamilton during a snow storm. My wife Jenna couldn’t make the trip, but thought it sounded perfect for us and trusted I would it know if it was when I got there. As soon as I drove down the long laneway, surrounded by beautiful snow capped trees, I was sold. Jim showed me around the farm, we talked about the business, lifestyle, and my aspirations for Back Forty. I didn’t need to do any research or give it much thought. It felt like the right move for us and was exactly what we were looking for — a chance for us to escape the rat race of big city living in southern Ontario. Back Forty perfectly aligned with how I wanted to be spending my time. I knew Jenna would feel the same way, so we purchased the farm and business on the spot.

Where does the milk for the cheese come from?
All of our cheese is made with high quality raw ewe milk. All of our milk derives from one flock of British Milk Sheep. The small family-run Ontario dairy farm is owned and operated by a hardworking Amish family that care deeply about the environment and their animals and are committed to the highest animal welfare practices. 

What has been involved in taking over the business from Jim Keith?
I apprenticed with Jim for several months leading up to the spring to ensure I had a solid foundation to carry on the prize-winning recipes. Jim introduced me to his loyal customers, suppliers, and distributor and has been very supportive. I’ve spent numerous hours studying microbiology, food safety, and sampling cheeses from around the world.

What has been the greatest challenge so far? The best part?
The biggest challenge has been working with an organic product. Cheese is alive and the chemistry changes greatly depending on the milking season, weather conditions, environmental changes, etc. I’m learning how to adapt the recipes to suit the given circumstance. It’s been challenging, but I’m learning everyday and enjoying the process.

The best part of owning Back Forty Artisan Cheese is being able to spend my time doing what I love each day with my loved ones close by. Jenna has her own hand-printed textile business (www.jennarose.ca), which she also runs from her home-based studio. Having us both working and living side by side on the farm everyday has been a great pleasure. In addition, the slower paced lifestyle is a great escape from the constant pressure of “more sales, more profits,” which I received in the corporate world. I’m now able to make and eat cheese every day. It’s fantastic.

Will you be changing anything about the production of Back Forty cheeses?
Back Forty is a small scale, handmade cheese operation. There is no fancy automated vat to stir and cut the curds, no mechanical presses, or quick and easy methods. Everything is done by hand using traditional old world methods and I intend to keep it that way. The only changes to production will be an increase in production by crafting more batches to keep up with the growing demand.

Will all of the established varieties continue to be available?
Yes, all four varieties of Back Forty Cheese will remain available, and I’m working on a new washed rind cheese that I hope to launch in early 2013.

Is the cheese currently available at all of the places in Ottawa listed on your website?
With the change of hands over the winter, spring, and early summer, inventory has been a little low. I’m making cheese daily to ensure all of our stores will have a good consistent supply for the fall. Currently, a small amount of our cheeses can be found in most of the Ottawa stores and all four varieties are typically available at the Carp farmers’ market.

For more information on Back Forty Artisan Cheese, see www.artisancheese.ca.

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A selection of Seed to Sausage salumi served at the launch of the Great Canadian Cheese Festival

Cured meats, as we all know, are making a comeback. And while I have enjoyed many of the new porky products appearing in deli counters and on charcuterie boards around town, I do find it can get a little confusing. The terminology alone is tough to tackle: is charcuterie the same as salumi? Is salumi the same as salame? What’s the difference between copa and capicola? Smoked, cured, cooked, dried, aged, nitrates, and nitrites — there is so much to know.

Luckily we have an expert, educator, and true Salumist among us! Ottawa-raised Michael McKenzie of Seed to Sausage has emerged from his military career as the region’s Pied Piper of Pork (and lamb and beef). It seems whatever he makes at his salumeria in Sharbot Lake, 130 km west of Ottawa, a trail of chefs and foodies follow behind holding baskets of crostini and jars of artisanal mustard.

Before launching his own artisan sausage company, McKenzie fell under the spell of salumi during regular pilgrimages to the Seattle shop owned by Armandino Batali — father of the celebrity chef and King of Orange Clogs himself, Mario Batali. “I tried a lot and I knew what I liked,” he says. When he arrived in Kingston and was unable to find hand-made sopressata, lonzino, or bresaola, McKenzie began producing cured meats in his garage. It wasn’t long before some savvy chefs sniffed him out.

“It was an underground meat train,” he tells me over a plate of his saucisson sec and chorizo accompanied by a glass of cool sparkling rosé at Play Food & Wine.

Two years ago, he wrote a business plan, hired a butcher and two chefs, and launched Seed to Sausage. McKenzie says Steve Beckta was one of the first restaurateurs to contact him about serving the local products at both Play and Beckta. With such endorsement from one of the biggest names in the business, word rapidly spread and Seed to Sausage products are now available in 35 restaurants and specialty shops in Ottawa, Kingston, Perth, and Toronto.

Now McKenzie is inviting the public to Sharbot Lake to have all of their salumi questions answered. To further entice foodies to come and celebrate the opening of his retail shop, he’s got a lineup of great food, beer, wine, and live music. He’s also tying the event to Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution Day since it is in line with the mandate to “inspire, educate, and empower people everywhere to stand up for real food.”

Will Seed to Sausage attract the kind of dedicated cult following that has made The Whalesbone Oysterfest and Beau’s Oktoberfest such amazing success stories? Who knows — maybe next year he’ll market the anniversary as Salumifest?

THE DETAILS: 

What: Seed to Sausage retail store Grand Opening party

Where: 12821 Highway 38 in Sharbot Lake

When: Saturday, May 19, 2012, 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.

Food Highlights: Cost $5 – $10 per plate ($2/oyster); The Whalesbone oysters; Strata Pizza wood-fired pizzas; Steve George of Olivea will prepare whole roasted lamb; chef Kyle Christopherson of Brookstreet Hotel’s Perspectives Restaurant will man the chip truck; Montreal’s St. Amboise microbrewery and PEC’s Sandbanks Winery will also be there.

Do You Want Some Cheese With That?

The new goat Gouda being produced by Clarmell on the Rideau, one of at least 36 artisan cheese makers signed up for the festival

If you can’t make it out to Sharbot Lake this weekend, you can still catch McKenzie in person a couple of weeks later at the Great Canadian Cheese Festival in Picton, Ontario (Prince Edward County). It’s the largest exhibition of Canadian artisan cheese ever — more than 125 different cheeses will be on display. Now in its second year, the young festival now boasts a Food Court. Apparently last year people complained they wanted something to eat after all that nibbling and sampling. So visitors will be able to fill up on grilled cheese sandwiches (what else?) from Toronto’s Cheesewerks. The County’s beloved Buddha Dog will also be there with their gourmet wieners and the 4-H Club will be making milkshakes  made with milk from the local cows.

THE DETAILS:

When: June 1-3, 2012

Where: The Crystal Palace in Picton Ontario, Prince Edward County

Tickets: Advance tickets are $35 available online at www.CheeseFestival.ca. (Tickets sold at the door are $40, if available.). Youth and child tickets for the Cheese Fair are available, without the glass and cooler bag. All other festival events are age of majority only.

The post TWO FOODIE ROAD TRIPS: Seed to Sausage Grand Opening (May 19) & The Great Canadian Cheese Festival (June 1-3) appeared first on Ottawa Magazine.

Nowadays local restaurants are rediscovering this luxury called cheese. Four great places to explore the intricacies of fermented milk at its finest. BY CINDY DEACHMAN

Decadent cheese plates from Arc, Black Cat, Canvas, and Play. Photography by Photoluxstudio.com - Christian Lalonde

1. ARC LOUNGE.DINING

At ARC Lounge, Ontario and Quebec cheeses are beautifully arranged along with blackberries, raspberries, pears, and nuts on a wooden board. Obviously attention is paid to balance and detail. The dry-textured Fifth Town chèvre is fresh, while Quebec’s oh-so-buttery and sweet La Sauvagine eats like brie. A blue Le Ciel de Charlevoix is not sharp, but hard, nutty. Try the unusually delicate apple compote. 1 pc/$8; 3 pc/$15; 5 pc/$22. 40 Slater St., 613-238-9998, www.arclounge.ca

2. BLACK CAT BISTRO

Here you’ll discover a five-cheese plate. From grazing sheep in Oxford Mills comes a Basque-style Tomme de Gaston, waxy yet rich. The wonderfully dry, crumbly Avonlea from Charlottetown is a cheddar that tastes sweet, not strong. To cut the powerful but velvety Bleu Bénédictin, dip it into truffle honey. Thoroughly enjoyable, too, is simple ricotta on a soft baguette — both made in-house. $18. 428 Preston St., 613-569-9998, www.blackcatbistro.ca

3. CANVAS RESTO-BAR-ETC.

Run down the blackboard list at Canvas. Choose one or even all — pay by the ounce. Seven of the eight cheeses are Québécois. The triple-cream Saint-Honoré melts in your mouth, buttery rich, while Le Douanier, with a line of ash down the middle, tastes pungently earthy. Tame the wildness of Stratford’s C’est Bon fresh goat cheese with the gorgeous honeycomb pooling in the middle of the plate. Exceptionally crunchy roasted walnuts and pecans. $4.95/oz. 65 Holland Ave., 613-729-1991, www.canvasrestobar.ca

4. PLAY FOOD & WINE

Play presents a cheese flight that guides you from mild to strong. The seven-cheese list ranges from Prince Edward County’s Cape Vessey (sweet, earthy) to a five-year-old orange Beemster from Holland (deep scotch flavour, salt crystals throughout). A creamy Rose Haus, also from Prince Edward County, is washed in Beau’s beer, its aroma likened to a barnyard. The sublime feral fragrance of animal. 3 pc/$13; 5 pc/$19; late-night wine and cheese flight/$20. 1 York St., 613-667-9207, www.playfood.ca

The post THE DISH: Say cheese! Who’s creating the most mouth-watering cheese plate? appeared first on Ottawa Magazine.

If ever there was a time for rib-sticking fare to warm our bellies and thaw out our frost-bitten digits, it is now. On one particularly frigid day last week, I set out in search of quintessential comfort food: macaroni & cheese.

The Place: After one limp and lacklustre cup of cheesy ridged noodles scraped out of a cafeteria-style stainless steel pan (sorry Serious Cheese, not serious enough), I made my way to Murray Street in the Byward Market. A few minutes after being seated at the bar at I overheard a woman, who was also dining solo, placing an order for mac ‘n’ cheese. “It’s the same thing I had last time,” she tells her server with a sly grin, “I’ve been dreaming about it.”

The Dish: My cast-iron skillet arrived piping hot, straight from the oven. Forget stretchy strands of gummy cheese clinging to hollow tubes, Murray’s noodles are delicate nuggets of sour cream spaetzle, a splendid nest of handmade pasta pieces with the appealing density and slight chewiness of dumplings. Everything is bathed in a gentle béchamel enhanced with extra old local cheddar and a few other bits of artisan cheese tossed in. Creamy without being cloying, its flavour is sophisticated and resists pungent distraction like stinky blue cheeses or truffle oil. Every once in a while, the fork loosens a gorgeous silky Le Coprin mushroom from amongst the soft springy strands, adding another layer of pleasure. Still more subtle contrast comes from the crunch of golden brown bits of rosemary biscuit crumbled across the top. The mellow nature of this dish belies its decadence, yet a surprisingly light touch manages to turn this old familiar friend into something entirely new: modern comfort food at its finest.

The Deal: In addition to its pimped-up KD, Murray Street offers a straight-forward lunch menu with a handful of sandwiches and a couple of composed salads; everything is priced the same at $14.

The Question: Could this creamy carb-o-licious dish cure a case of winter malaise? Go try it and find out for yourself.

Murray Street, 110 Murray St., 613-562-7244, www.murraystreet.ca

Lunch hours: Monday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.

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Two months, dozens of meals, hundreds of taste tests, and one order of braised veal sweetbreads later, we’re thrilled to reveal Ottawa Magazine’s first 101 Tastes list. We took a spectacular culinary stroll through the capital region, stopping to taste all that caught our fancy along the way. The only parameters? From bread to honey and burfi to rendang, the food and drink that made the cut had to be either made in Ottawa, unique to Ottawa, or hard to find elsewhere. Bon appétit!

Styling by Noah Witenoff. Photography by Christian Lalonde, Photoluxstudio.com

SIMPLE PLEASURES

Comfort food goes haute, with gourmet pies, ice cream, and ­— to wash it down, a fine microbrew

1 Beau’s Lug Tread Beer
You’ve gotta love a family-run homegrown microbrewery with its own band, called the Oh-Yeah’s. The beer, made with certified organic malt and local spring water, is just as refreshing as its quirky branding. $7.65/750 mL. Available at many restaurants, bars, and LCBO stores. www.beaus.ca.

2 Pascale’s ice cream
Made with heart and a whole lot of cream, eggs, and sugar, Pascale Berthiaume’s decadent homemade ice cream has the city swooning. The peanut butter salted caramel is a party in a half-pint and proves there’s no such thing as being too rich or too yummy. $10 for a half-pint. The Piggy Market, 400 Winston Ave.,613-371-6124. For other locations, check www.pascales-icecream.com.

3 Bryson Farm’s baby salad greens
Digging into a bag of Bryson Farm’s organic salad greens is like opening nature’s box of chocolates. You never know what you’re gonna get: mâche, endive, frisée, kale, arugula, cress, sorrel, beet tops, chards. From sweet and lemony to mustardy and spicy, more than 100 varieties are grown and snipped with care throughout the year. 23 Stewart Rd., Shawville, 819-647-3456, www.brysonfarms.com.

4 Memories’ triple berry pie
Raspberries, blackberries, and cranberries. Oh, my! This stunning deep-dish wonder is refreshingly tart, bursting with bright berry flavour, and topped with crunchy brown sugar oat crumble. The only thing better? Three words: à la mode. $7.25. Memories, 7 Clarence St., 613-241-1882.

5 Lamb tourtière from Les Fougères
Lots of meat in this ground lamb tourtière, made moist with the addition of pork, as well as goat cheese. Its fruitiness comes from red peppers, red currant jelly, and balsamic vinegar. $6/single, $16/four servings. Les Fougères, 783 Hwy. 105, Chelsea, 819-827-8942, www.fougeres.com.

6Coriander pesto
Gentle and creamy, this pesto hasn’t a sharp bone in its body. Good for any wide noodle (which you can also pick up here). Made-in-house and pret-à-porter. $8.50/4-person serving. Pastina, 355, boul. Gréber, Gatineau (Gatineau sector), 819-243-0546.

The post 101 Tastes To Try Before You Die appeared first on Ottawa Magazine.

The great Eastern Ontario wine-and-cheese road trip

By David Lawrason

Illustration: Li Hewitt

PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY IS ON A ROLL, having launched a stunning 17 new labels or wineries this past year to boost its total to 31. At the same time, eastern Ontario is undergoing a renaissance of cheese making, with at least four new artisanal sheep, goat, and cow’s milk producers joining the large existing community of cheddar specialists. And so the stage is set for an exciting new kind of weekend culinary excursion. On a meandering road trip from Ottawa to Picton, you could visit half a dozen cheese factories, then buy wines to match when you arrive in the County. I recently gathered over a dozen cheeses and County wines for a fascinating mix and match exploration, and I present my favourite pairings as a guide for your eastern Ontario wine and cheese excursion — and resulting party. For those who never seem able to get out of town, I have also listed Ontario-grown likely wine alternatives more easily available at the LCBO. As well, many of the cheeses can be found at speciality shops in Ottawa, including Farm Boy.

WHITE

Closson Chase 2007 Chardonnay
$29.92 • Prince Edward County • 89 points

Age matters! This Closson Chase Vineyards chardonnay is barrel-aged, intriguing, complex, and very refined, with smoky, nutty chive and green pear fruit. Lovely texture and impressive length make it a surprisingly good match with a tangy — almost salty — six-year-old white cheddar from Black River Cheese (Milford/Picton), as well as with another well-aged cheese — Fifth Town’s Lighthall Tomme (also from the County). Vintages 148866.

Lacey 2009 Gewürztraminer
$22 • Prince Edward County • 89 points

This new family winery on Closson Road makes an instant mark with its blooming, fragrant, spicy gewürz with classic County minerality and acidity. This wine offers a dynamite match to an aged gouda from Wilton Cheese Factory (Odessa/Kingston) and a firm, cave-aged, nutty Lighthall Tomme goat cheese from Fifth Town (Picton). From the LCBO, Niagara gewürztraminers from Cave Spring 2008 (Vintages 302059, $15.95) or Palatine Hills 2008 (LCBO 101493, $13.95) would also work well.

Rosehall Run 2008 Sullyzwicker White
$17.95 • Prince Edward County • 87 points

This summery blend by Dan “Sully” Sullivan features floral-scented varieties such as chardonnay musqué, ehrenfelser, and muscat ottonel. It’s fragrant, with mint, fennel, and grapefruit set in a light, fresh, slightly sweet style that works best with the semi-soft gouda-style cow’s cheese named Lankaaster from Glengarry Fine Cheese (Lancaster) and a semi-hard raw sheep’s milk called Bonnechere from Back Forty (Lanark). From Niagara, try blended whites such as Flat Rock’s 2008 Twisted (Vintages 1578, $16.95).

Casa-Dea 2008 Riesling
$16.95 • Prince Edward County • 86 points

Formerly Carmela Estates, Casa-Dea is under new ownership with Niagara-trained winemaker Paul Battilana, who has engineered a light-bodied, racy, stone-dry riesling with fresh pear and citrus flavours. It dovetails nicely with a blooming fresh soft cow’s milk cheese called Figaro from Glengarry Fine Cheese (Lancaster) and the Cape Vessey washed-rind goat cheese from Fifth Town (Picton). From the LCBO, try Vineland Dry Riesling 2008 (167551, $13.95) or Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2009 (Vintages 80234, $16.95).

SPARKLING PINK

Hinterland 2007 Rosé Sparkling
$37.20 • Prince Edward County • 90 points

The first pink sparkling bubbly from the County is a brilliant effort from the first winery dedicated solely to sparkling wines. Purity and brilliance from start to finish, with great colour and a generous nose of raspberry, tea biscuit, and wet stone minerality. It’s light and taut with razor acidity. The subtlety requires a mild white cheese such as Lankaaster from Glengarry (Lancaster). From the LCBO, Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Rosé Brut (4051, $29.95) is a good alternative.

Photography: Marc Fowler/Metropolis Studio

RED

Huff Estates 2007 South Bay Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon
$29.95 • Prince Edward County • 90 points

Perhaps the best bordeaux-style red yet made in the County, this mid-weight blend shows real confidence and poise. It’s elegant and long on the finish, with raspberry-cherry fruit, subtle oak spice, capers/green pepper, and coffee nuances. Also, the most versatile cheese matcher, it catches fire with Cape Vessey and even the almost liquid Operetta, both from Fifth Town (Picton), and easily handles aged gouda from Wilton (Odessa/Kingston). This is a wine that is comfortable even with Barely Blue from Glengarry (Lancaster).

The Old Third 2008 Pinot Noir
$35 • Prince Edward County  • 90 points

This debut from a brand new small, single-minded pinot producer on Closson Road immediately joins the top echelon of County pinots, with refined layering of cran-beet fruit, spice, thyme-like herbs, mineral aromas, and fine, sturdy — if youthfully tannic — texture. It easily handles the complex six-year-old cheddar from Black River (Milford/Picton) and the earthy semi-hard sheep cheese called Bonnechere from Back Forty (Lanark), as well as, surprisingly, an almost liquid sheep cheese called Operetta from Fifth Town (Picton). For comparably sturdy Niagara pinots at Vintages, look to Le Clos Jordanne (33902).

Rosehall Run 2008 Pinot Noir Cuvée County
$18.95 • Prince Edward County • 88 points

The new vintage bursts with cran-raspberry fruit, spice, and light toasty notes in a typically light County style with good tannic grip. One of the best pairings is the widely available mild cheddar from Balderson (Winchester), which softens the tannin and accentuates the fruit. It also works with a sharper extra-old cheddar from Wilton (Odessa/Kingston) but is too light for the six-year-old cheddar and strong sheep or goat cheeses. Lighter Ontario pinots at the LCBO include Trumpour’s Mill 2007 (Vintages, 122283, $19.95).

Waupoos 2008 Baco Noir
$15.95 • Prince Edward County • 86 points

The hybrid baco noir may be an ugly duckling to many wine drinkers, but it’s favoured by County growers for its winter hardiness — to which we can add its cheese hardiness. This deeply coloured, farm-scented, oaky, and smoky red worked very well with the heavy hitters like Lighthall Tomme from Fifth Town, aged gouda and extra-old cheddar from Wilton, and semi-hard roasted-rind Bonnechere from Back Forty. It even put up a fight with Barely Blue from Glengarry. From the LCBO, Prince Edward County’s Sandbanks 2008 Baco Noir (110049, $14.95) should also work.

Reprinted from the Summer 2010 issue. Prices current at that time.

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