Wine | Ottawa Magazine

TASTING NOTES: Celebrating bordeaux from the smaller wineries

Bordeaux from small wineries rival those of grand estates — at a fraction of the price

by David Lawrason

Illustration by Stéphane Denis

In May, I spent 10 days in Bordeaux, France, with fellow wine enthusiasts who had bid high for the pleasure of a tour that took in France’s great châteaux. (The auction, for the record, took place during last year’s Gold Medal Plates chefs’ competition, which raises funds for Canada’s Olympic athletes. This year’s food and wine soiree takes place November 16 at the National Arts Centre, www.goldmedalplates.com). Our excursions through the Médoc, Saint-Émilion/Pomerol, Graves, and Sauternes landed at many impressive grand cru classé, or top-ranked, wine estates. The wines were splendid, the aura of the properties was splendiferous, and the wine prices were — well — stratospheric. A barrel sample of a stunning premier Grand Cru Classé 2009 Château Cheval Blanc was priced at about $500 a bottle. Given the acclaim of the pitch-perfect 2009 vintage, it could fetch up to $1,500 by the time it passes through commercial markups and government levies to show up at the LCBO in 2012. (The unacclaimed 2006 currently lists at $1,099.)

So, yes, we were awestruck and very fortunate. But when we weren’t sipping once-in-a-lifetime bordeaux reds, we were actually buying and drinking “petits chateaux” from less vaunted vintages. And though they lacked the swooning refinement and soul-probing depth of their grand cru peers, they somehow demonstrated more personality and individuality — for far less money. The 2006s are authentic, slightly less ripe, and more tannic. The 2007s are lighter, fruitier, and more charming, without the flavour depth of 2006 and the terrific structure and deep fruit of the 2005s. (I love the 2005s.)

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TASTING NOTES: Autumn in a glass! Discover Ontario ciders

Illustration: Margaret Chelkowska

Taking their cue from a robust Quebec industry, Ontario producers are now elevating the status of the apple and making gorgeous ciders. Close your eyes, take a sip, and prepare to be transported straight into the orchard on a crisp fall day

By David Lawrason

The McIntosh apple was discovered by United Empire Loyalist John McIntosh when he spied a few wild apple-tree seedlings while he was clearing land near Morrisburg, in the St. Lawrence Valley south of Ottawa. The year was 1811. He transplanted the seedlings to his garden, but only one tree survived, producing its now famous Mac apple until 1908. The tree tipped over in 1910 after almost 100 years of service (as we all would). This bite of history is now more appropriate than ever, given that production of apple cider is on the rise along the St. Lawrence corridor.

In Ontario hard cider (apple cider with alcohol) is a small industry struggling for consumer and regulatory recognition — still very much in the shadow of beer as a beverage of casual contentment. Few apple-only producers are active in Ontario, among over 30 producers of other types of fruit wines, and only two are listed at the LCBO. (A Prince Edward County neighbour is now dabbling in cider, as well, without commercial production yet.) However, the situation is much more robust in Quebec, where — perhaps inspired by the apple-based calvados industry in Normandy — there are more than 40 producers of hard cider, many also making gorgeous ice cider from frozen apples. Two Quebec companies in particular — Domaine Pinnacle and La Face Cachée de la Pomme — are putting Quebec ice cider on the world map, with exports to Europe and Asia.

When you explore ciders, you will find many styles — from sparkling to bone-dry and from oak-aged to those flavoured with other fruits and spices. And let’s not forget the super-sweet dessert styles. But no matter how rendered, the core apple aromas (pun intended) must be pure and easily identifiable. And it’s even better if they transport you right into the orchard on a fall day. Some of these offerings are available at the LCBO. For others, you might want to take an autumn drive to the wineries or contact them directly to inquire about purchasing and shipping.

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Wine Picks: Say Cheese

The great Eastern Ontario wine-and-cheese road trip

By David Lawrason

Illustration: Li Hewitt

PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY IS ON A ROLL, having launched a stunning 17 new labels or wineries this past year to boost its total to 31. At the same time, eastern Ontario is undergoing a renaissance of cheese making, with at least four new artisanal sheep, goat, and cow’s milk producers joining the large existing community of cheddar specialists. And so the stage is set for an exciting new kind of weekend culinary excursion. On a meandering road trip from Ottawa to Picton, you could visit half a dozen cheese factories, then buy wines to match when you arrive in the County. I recently gathered over a dozen cheeses and County wines for a fascinating mix and match exploration, and I present my favourite pairings as a guide for your eastern Ontario wine and cheese excursion — and resulting party. For those who never seem able to get out of town, I have also listed Ontario-grown likely wine alternatives more easily available at the LCBO. As well, many of the cheeses can be found at speciality shops in Ottawa, including Farm Boy.

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Wine Picks: Chill Out

Ontario’s Nifty 2008 Whites

By David Lawrason

Illustration: Emily Chen

ONTARIO’S WHITE WINES ARE GAINING STATURE with every passing season. They have an energy and a fragrance that taps into the sap-stirring feelings we northerners experience every spring. This was never truer than with the 2008 vintage now on the shelves. Reset your body clock to the summer of 2008 — the warm and wet one (2009 was cold and wet). All that humidity, including the tail end of a hurricane or two in September, meant that grape growers had to be extra vigilant to remove leaves so that wind and warmth could fan away mildew and stoke more ripeness in the berries. The sunless conditions delayed ripening, although Niagara and Prince Edward County did breathe a sigh of relief with a warmer, drier October. In the end, 2008 turned out to be a challenge for the later-ripening reds but delivered nifty whites with all kinds of zesty acidity. I actually found many of them too tart when they were first released last spring/summer, but now, after a winter in the bottle, they are settling down and filling out. Here is a fine selection, either on the shelves of the LCBO or from the wineries. And in very much the same spirit, if not from the 2008 vintage, we include two new Prince Edward County sparkling wines — another style as buoyant as a spring day — showing magnificent promise for Ottawa’s backyard wine region.

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Wine Picks: Sweet Success

Ideal for sipping on cold winter evenings (preferably in front of a crackling fire),
these lush and lovely ports spread warmth and cheer

By David Lawrason

Photography: Marc Fowler/Metropolis Studio

THERE IS NOTHING MORE SOOTHING in the teeth of winter than a spine-warming glass of port. As you sip, the summer heat from the sun-baked Douro Valley of Portugal seems to transfer directly into your very being. All port is sweet, fortified to about 20 percent alcohol through the addition of grape brandy partway through fermentation, so there is no such thing as dry port. The flavours do, however, vary according to the length of subsequent aging in barrel and bottle. The more fruit-flavoured ports — ruby and vintage ports — are aged for the shortest amount of time (under four years), while late-bottled vintage ports are aged from four to six years. Although all ports are fine sipping stock, the fruit ports are ideally suited for pairing with chocolate-based desserts and cheeses such as stilton. The wood-character, or tawny, ports are aged seven years or more, with the length of time designated on the label (Ten-Year-Old, Twenty-Year-Old, etc.). The tawnies favour nutty desserts, cheeses, and dried-fruit mixes beside the fire. White port is more mildly flavoured, often showing some wood-induced caramel, while pink port strives to be the rosé of fortified wines.

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Wine Picks: Money Well Spent

Delectable wines that won’t break the bank
By David Lawrason

Illustration: Stéphane Denis

SO 2009 HAS BEEN ROUGH. But it is still the season to be merry, by giving and enjoying a good bottle of wine or three. The great news is that this year, it’s okay not to spend big. In fact, sales of very expensive wines have been slow at the LCBO this year, and it could be more than a slap-on-the-wrist reprimand. I belong to the camp predicting that the glory days are over for iconic wines with triple-digit price tags, perhaps for the next 10 years or even a generation. There are several reasons. First, many rarefied, and sometimes fossilized, wines are clearly overpriced, given the quality in the bottle. Second, wine buyers are better informed and more courageous than ever before, and there is now more status in the smart purchase of a less expensive, undiscovered, or simply delicious wine. And third, there is so much excellent wine priced at under $50 that it really isn’t necessary to spend $100, $200, or more to impress with wines that only prove your heart is where your wallet is. Here is an excellent-quality selection from the Vintages November releases, the Essentials program, and a couple of general listings that score 90 points or better based on quality factors such as complexity, balance, and flavour concentration. So it can still truly be “best of the season.”

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The Weekender: Roller-derby madness, slick jazz, and four other things to do this weekend

David Sanborn takes to the Jazz Fest stage on June 26

1. OTTAWA JAZZ FEST
You’ve got to pace yourself when the festival lasts for 12 days! Ottawa Magazine’s weekend picks? How about Grammy Award-winner Herbie Hancock on June 25 (8 p.m.), followed by sax man David Sanborn, who gets down with his trio on June 26 (7:30 p.m.).NAC regular John Geggie leads a jam session after hours on June 24, 25, and 26 (10:30 p.m.). See website for ticket info. Various locations, 613- 241-2633, www.ottawajazzfestival.com

2. SLAUGHTER DAUGHTERS VS. RIOT SQUAD
As the first Ottawa roller-derby crew, the Slaughter Daughters learned the game by the seat of their hot pants. The tattoo-covered veterans take on their disciples, Riot Squad, in the first inner-league bout ever! To witness this thrilling show of speed and spunk, head to Sandy Hill Arena. June 26. $12 in advance; $15 at the door. Retail outlets selling tickets include The Candy Store, Venus Envy, Crosstown Traffic, and SpaceMan Music. 60 Mann Ave., www.rideauvalleyrollergirls.com

3. AVATAR 3D
It’s not too late to catch this flick the way James Cameron intended. Avatar plays at the IMAX Theatre for one last weekend. Enjoy the epic battle between humans and the Na’vi creatures of Pandora on the biggest screen in the city, while wrapped in 30,000 watts of sound. Until June 27. Adults $15; seniors, students, and children $12. Museum of Civilization, 100, rue Laurier, Gatineau, 819-776-7010. www.civilization.com

4. THESE ARE THE MARKS I MAKE (FREE!)
Painter Duncan de Kergommeaux surveys work from his career, spanning almost six decades. From process-oriented grid paintings and drawings of the 1970s, to more recent embellishments of the landscape, this exhibition frames de Kergommeaux as an artist who seeks meaning in the creative process. Ottawa Art Gallery, 2 Daly Ave., 613-233-8699. www.ottawaartgallery.ca

5. THOUSAND ISLANDS WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL
Worth the drive for wine and foodies! Gourmands can revel in the taste of some of the province’s finest wine, beer, and food at this first-ever festival. Feel free to imbibe — a complimentary shuttle service is offered during festival hours. See website for ticket info. June 25 and 26. Brockville Country Club, 1548 King St. W., Brockville, 888-251-7676, www.brockvilletourism.com

6. CAMPFIRE AND STORYTELLING
Hotdogs and marshmallows, campfire, and stories. What more could you need? Join the Ottawa Storytellers for an evening of tall tales around the fire. It’s just like camping — except you get to return to your own comfy bed at the end of the night. Bring your own blanket or chair to sit on. $6 per person, $10 per pair, or $15 per family. June 26. 6:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. 270 Pinhey’s Point Rd., Dunrobin, 613-832-4347, www.ottawa.ca/museums

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Brewing It Wright in Beer Town

Les Brasseurs du Temps has ambitious plans to serve up beer and history in equal measure by Amélie Crosson

Thirst for knowledge: Marc Gaudin (above right) is passionate about bringing alive the brew history of the region — which is why he has big plans to upgrade the status of Les Brasseurs du Temps from microbrewery and restaurant to microbrewery, restaurant, and museum. Photographs: Marc Fowler/Metropolis Studio

When Marc Gaudin and his partners opened Les Brasseurs du Temps last summer, the ghost of Philemon Wright must have gasped, “It’s about time.” After all, it was here at the corner of Papineau and Montcalm (formerly Brewery Street) on the banks of Brewery Creek that Wright himself decided in 1821 to convert his distillery into a brewery to satisfy the hordes of thirsty English and Irish labourers who descended on the area to build the Rideau Canal. Almost 200 years later, Gaudin and his partners hope their modern brew hall, housed in a stone heritage building located on the same site, will draw in modern-day hordes of thirsty patrons in search of fine microbrews, good food, and history.

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