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WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Presenting steak frites served with flair at Farb’s

The Place: The Beechwood strip in New Edinburgh is finally starting to feel like a bit of a foodie destination with a range of satisfying lunch options. For those who are tired of panini, pizza, or the sour-puss service at The Scone Witch and plan to linger a little longer, there’s Farb’s. This place seems to struggle where Fraser Café excels, catering to the neighbourhood with an accessible bistro experience.

The Deal: The menu touts the kitchen’s love of local ingredients and thus it must change regularly. A blessedly short list, it instills confidence: this place is not trying to be all things to all people. A couple of creative salads, a pimped-up tuna melt, classic salmon filet, and a hand-rolled pasta demonstrates sophistication and familiarity will be dished out in equal measure. On a recent visit the pulled pork sandwich and daily soup (a tangy salmon and apple chowder) lands on almost every table, but we discover it’s better to stick with the steak.

The Dish: It might be easier to count the number of restaurants that don’t offer a steak frites option these days, but rarely does this dish do more than the minimum to impress. It is what it is, you might say. Not so! Farb’s marinates and slices up amazingly tender hanger steak (an unusual cut that requires skill to prepare but offers great rewards including un indescribable savouriness). A tangle of sauteed onions and chunks of wild mushrooms as well as a gravy with hints of sweet soy, reduced balsamic, and star anise turn this dish into a cross between gourmet poutine and a stellar steak stir-fry.

The Cost: Lunch dishes range from $12-$20, steak frites is $18. A banana split adds $10 to the bill, but you won’t regret it.

Farb’s Kitchen & Wine Bar, 18 Beechwood Ave., 613-744-6509.

Lunch hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.


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