ANNE’S PICK: Anne DesBrisay learns to forage in Windsor Park

Amber Westfall offers both plant walks and workshops through her company The Wild Garden

By Anne DesBrisay

Walking in the weeds inWindsor Park

Amber Westfall is a weed eater. An hour in her instructive company and I was too — now unable to amble through an urban greenspace without salivating at the prospect of all those edibles underfoot.

Armed with a Hori Hori, a very cool Japanese knife/digging tool, and an encyclopaedic knowledge of the urban backyard’s bounty, Westfall led a “Jane’s Walk” last week through Windsor Park. We were a group of maybe 20, keen to hear about urban foraging — what are the weeds we walk on daily that can be used as food and medicine. It was very cool.

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TRY THIS: Anne DesBrisay discovers the ultimate vanilla extract — sold out of a little bakery on the edge of Chinatown

The vanilla from Macarons et Madeleines is aged eight months, made with beans from the Madagascar region infused in vodka

By Anne DesBrisay

The really good stuff. Vanilla extract from Stephan Ethier of Macarons et Madeleines.

I bought a pretty bottle of liquid vanilla when I was in the French patisserie Macarons et Madeleines, looking for a pick-me-up pain aux raisins for elevenses. (See Anne’s Pick of May 31, 2012). And then – zut alors! –  as I am homeward bound with my treasures in my car the bottle rolled off the passenger seat, smashing onto a ceramic tile sample I had left on the car floor in wait for its return to Home Depot.

The vanilla lid broke, the extract began oozing out and, as I pulled over to rescue it, I got a ticket for pausing in a bus lane during OC Transpo-only hours. No amount of truth telling convinced the officer.

Though I am convinced she did look longingly at my pain aux raisins before commenting on the smell, which was quite boozy.

It is possible I got off lightly…

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ANNE’S PICK: Announcing the competing chefs for Gold Medal Plates 2013 — Anne DesBrisay’s behind-the-scenes analysis

Last year's winner, Oz Kafe's Jamie Stunt (centre), is flanked by Arc's Jason Duffy (left) and Sidedoor's Jonathan Korecki

The point of this pick is threefold. To tell you the lineup of competing chefs for the 2013 Ottawa-Gatineau Gold Medal Plates just announced, to tell you a bit about each of them, and to suggest that if you aren’t familiar with any one of them (and even if you are) get out to their restaurants to test their wares – each brings a lot to the table.

Seven months from next week, at the National Arts Centre on November 18th, these eight chefs will be dishing up their most awesome effort for a few hundred guests and a panel of judges.

Here’s the list:

From Beckta Dining and Wine, Katie Brown

From The Wellington Gastropub, Chris Deraiche

From Town, Marc Doiron

From ARC Lounge.Dining, Jason Duffy

From the Carleton Grill, Sheraton Hotel, Frédéric Filliodeau

From OdileMarisol Foucault

From Sidedoor, Jonathan Korecki

From NavarraRené Rodriguez

These are all restaurant chefs, accessible to the public and with the support of a team (some small, others sizeable) behind them. Four of these chefs have competed in past GMPs.  Jonathan Korecki and Jason Duffy both podiumed last year. We invited them back, as we like to do, for another crack at it, and perhaps the chance to represent Ottawa at the Canadian Culinary Championships in February. We have the pleasure of Chris Deraiche (The Wellington Gastropub) competing for a second year as well. And we haven’t seen René Rodriguez at this competition since 2009, when his Navarra was but a baby, not the seasoned restaurant it is today.

Executive chef Michael Moffatt won gold in 2010 for Beckta Dining and Wine, but this will be Beckta Chef de Cuisine Katie Brown’s first go-round. First time too, for Marc Doiron of Town Restaurant and for Gatineau’s Marisol Foucault, who will represent her second restaurant, the teeny tiny Odile.

Finally, and also new to Gold Medal Plates competition, but hardly unseasoned in the art of culinary competition, is Frédéric Filliodeau of the Sheraton Hotel’s increasingly impressive Carleton Grill. French-born, his career has taken him to many kitchens in France and Canada, including to Le Cordon Bleu in Ottawa, where he was Executive Chef during a period when Signatures was really one of the region’s finest French restaurants.

So there you have it. Some chefs from humble places, some with the might of a hotel chain behind them. But if we’ve learned one thing from Gold Medal Plates competitions, it’s that the dark horses are not to be discounted. Sometimes the chef from the tiniest restaurant takes home the gold… and then goes on to make us proud at the national level.

Marc Lepine, from the 22-seat Atelier, stood tallest on the Ottawa podium and then took the title handily of ‘Canadian Culinary Champion’ for 2012. And earlier this year Jamie Stunt, from the little OZ Kafé, won the silver medal at the CCC, propelled by a dish of yak bolstered with a bottle of  beer. You should’ve been there!

Anything goes, as they say. Book a table, folks, and best of luck to them all!

ANNE’S PICK: Koko chocolates — because there’s still snow on the ground and you deserve a little joy

The pretty squares and rounds are mostly built around ganaches with flavour boosters of nuts, spices, herbs, fruits and booze.

Because it’s five degrees and five days into Spring, but I still can’t see over the dunes of snow in my driveway. (That’s a good one…) Because my neighbours on both sides are on a beach somewhere and I’m in charge of their driveway dunes too. (Oh yea. Now you’re on a roll…) Because it’s my  mum’s birthday and I miss her. (That’s right, play the dead mother card.)

Sometimes a day calls for chocolate and there’s nothing to be done till you’ve dealt with it. And if you weren’t brought up with the belief that Lent is not the time for indulgences, and are at peace with the idea of Chocolate Anytime, Anywhere, no pangs, no recriminations, no softly from the grave sounds of tut-tutting, then you are a better woman than I.

And you will feel quite free from the need to catalogue the reasons why you are purchasing a box, for curative purposes, eating all eight, in the car, all by yourself. You will taste nothing but pride and pleasure. Good on ‘ya.

The cure for me is called koko.

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ANNE’S PICKS: Anne DesBrisay waxes poetic about pulled pork — and Murray Street’s brunch

Solid goodness: Oozing out of the pancake, a wildly rich filling of barbecue pulled pork, baked beans, and aged cheddar cheese.

Here’s a brunch pick for you. Or, more precisely, “That Weekend Thing” at Murray Street, with its Mission Statement of  “Pork Fat: we put that #%$# in everything!”

Indeed they do. Come hungry and come keen, ’cause if you’re looking for cool riffs on the bacon and eggs breakfast and have no interest whatsoever in seeing anything green on the plate, Murray Street delivers with unabashed enthusiasm and no shortage of heft.

This is brunch that will stick with you all day. Maybe all week. This dish in particular — a pulled pork “potaco” they call it because the taco shell is fashioned with potato. Oozing out of the crisp and gooey rosti-like pancake, a wildly rich filling of barbecue pulled pork, Murray Street’s baked beans, and aged Pine River cheddar cheese. On top, a smoked tomato relish and on the side a dollop of sour cream. Canadian comfort food at its very finest.

The post-brunch plan was to work it off with a long, hard skate. Plan B was to have a nap. As luck would have it, the canal was closed.

Cost: $15

Open: Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. 

Murray Street, 110 Murray St., 613-562-7244.

ANNE’S PICKS: Red Apron brings Toronto’s Selsi salt to Ottawa

No need to trek to Toronto for salt by Selsi — DesBrisay discovers it's carried closer to home at Red Apron.

Friends and family find my fondness for salt pretty accommodating. It tends to be the easy-peasy go-to when it comes to birthdays and Mother’s Day and so on. I have hinted that I also like socks. No use. The salt keeps pouring in. Hawaiian Red and Peruvian Pink and Indian Black Salt. Fleur de Sel and Flor de Sal. Sel Gris and Sel de Guerande. And from a darling little shop called Selsi at the Jarvis Entrance of Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market, a small jar of Italian Black Truffle salt. A salt-lover’s Shangri-la, Selsi also sells high quality peppercorns and Indian spices and pastes, along with stuff to make your bath smell great, and on and on.

I still have a bit of that precious Truffle Salt left – amazing on popcorn and risotto – and had planned to pick up some more when next in Toronto. And then yesterday, while browsing the wonderful Red Apron on Gladstone, I found Selsi, and some lovely pink pinching salt mined closer to home. This salt’s from Saskatchewan. It’s called Prairie Pink, comes packaged in a squat jar with a black lid and a little wooden dip spoon. High in iron oxide and trace minerals, it has a sweet-salty flavour and has so far improved everything I’ve sprinkled it on.

A 127 gm jar costs $6.99. I should think it would make a lovely gift for the salt lover on your list.

ANNE’S PICKS: Anne DesBrisay beats the cold with Mia’s dal shorba

Cold beater: Anne DesBrisay says Mia's yellow lentil soup has what it takes to warm you when the temperature hits the double-digit minuses — it should be called "Thirty Below Soup"

Hats, mitts, scarves, long johns… critical to be sure, but don’t discount the power of lentils, cumin, coriander and chillies for taking on the kind of frostiness we had last week.

Yes, indeed, Dal Shorba should be part of your winter arsenal. Perfumed with ginger, garlic, and the “super spice” turmeric, the yellow lentil soup is brightened with lemon and greened with cilantro. It has what it takes to be called Thirty Below Soup.

My new favourite dal shorba is found at Mia. Located on the north side of Richmond Road just east of Woodroffe, the Indian restaurant makes the best use I’ve yet found of a departed KFC.

In the kitchen is Samsu Mia, and on the floor, his son Mostofa.

Mia, a former chef at the Bangladeshi High Commission, made headlines in 2003 when he sought sanctuary in the First Unitarian Church. Eighteen months later, after being granted ministerial assurance that he would not be deported, Mia left the church and found work in area restaurants. In 2012 he opened Mia’s Indian Cuisine in a renovated Kentucky Fried Chicken together with Mostofa — a graduate of Algonquin College’s hospitality program.

They make a good team, and a mighty warming soup.

Cost: $3.95.

Hours: Open Tuesday to Sunday for lunch and daily for dinner 

Mia, 917 Richmond Rd., 613-695-3333. 

 

ANNE’S PICKS: Anne DesBrisay swoons for the Whalesbone Sammich

What's for lunch? The decadent menu board at The Whalesbone.

By Anne DesBrisay

Growing up, Fridays were fish nights in my family.  Lots of you may also have grown up with this culinary custom, centred on the Lenten belief in atonement and privation. I guess the thinking was that meat was a treat, and since no treats were allowed during Lent, or on Fridays during Lent, or — heck — let’s just say no treat-meats on Fridays ever, folks were forced to eat fish.

That usually meant fish sticks when I was a kid — no hardship there, but if my mother was feeling fancy, it was steamed frozen sole, with steamed frozen spinach and packaged hollandaise, and you can be quite sure there was some suffering through that.

Catch of the day: On this day, the Brown Bag Sammich was steelhead trout, spice-rubbed and crunchy-fried.

I recall, though, that it wasn’t a hard and fast rule. If the neighbours were coming over, there’d be steak. Still, every so often, when Friday rolls around, as Friday tends to do, I get these fishy feelings. So this past Friday, I got myself to The Whalesbone for some serious deprivation.

The Brown Bag Sammich of the Day was Steelhead trout. I regret to report it was utterly satisfactory in every sense — the pale orange fish moist, spice-rubbed, crunchy-fried, tucked into a deliciously chewy-sourdough bun with good ol’ iceberg lettuce, gooey-sweet caramelized onion, and some sort of very tasty aïoli.

No privation whatsoever in that Brown Bag. Though there was the freezing rain… just to remind me it was still Friday.

Cost: $8 (regular) or $11 (large)

The Whalesbone Sustainable Retail Oyster and Fish Store, 504-A Kent St., 613-231-3474.

HAPPY CHRISTMAS TO ME! Happiness is… a kilo of Happy Goat coffee beans delivered right to your door

Good morning! There's nothing like waking up to discover a kilo of Happy Goat beans on the doorstep

By Anne DesBrisay

I’m a serious drinker and I guess you could say I spend serious money on my habit. But here’s the thing: I take my coffee black, so the savings from not having to buy cream (crazy expensive) justifies, I figure, my forking out more for the good stuff.

And the good stuff, of late, for me, comes from Happy Goat and to my front porch. My current favourite — given I’m a double espresso in the morning addict — is the craft brewery’s Babae’s blend. It has a complicated aroma — lots going on those there beans — but the finish is clean and bittersweet and the crema Babae produces is rich and lovely.

Just the other morning, I opened my door and there, on the step, was a kilo of the stuff. I had ordered the beans online — didn’t even know that was possible — just the day before. And just look at the date stamped on the bags: these beans are so fresh, they were roasted in the future!

The fella behind Happy Goat is Pierre Richard and I don’t know what he does to get this particular blend of beans so bang on perfect, but I’d like to wish the man who’s product I most love to wake up to, the very best of the season.

Cost: A kilo costs $38

Delivery days: Wednesday and Friday

Happy Goat Coffee Company, 57 Lyndale Ave., 613-792-1309.

ANNE’S PICKS: Just in time for the holidays, Anne DesBrisay finds a worthy Stollen at True Loaf

Christmas cheer: Marzipan alert! There's a toonie-sized length of it in True Loaf's version of the Christmas classic known as stollen.

By Anne DesBrisay

“Nothing says holiday cheer like Stollen!” Eh?

Eh??

Well that’s my new cry anyway. This was to be a post on plum pudding, but when I got to the True Loaf Bread Company, from whom I had picked up a fantastic pud last year, lo and behold, they were gone. Sold out.

Humbug.

I was talked into Stollen. A few were on display on the True Loaf counter, all wrapped up for Christmas with a ribbon and a bow. But I bought it with a heavy heart. I’ve never much liked these German loaves: dense, dry, too sweet for bread, not sweet enough for cake, typically an anti-climax.

But it turned out to be completely not the case with this version. This one is hefty, to be sure, dense with dried fruit, candied peel, citrus zest, but this one has a heart. Rather than almonds in the mix, a Toonie-sized length of marzipan (almond meal and extract sweetened with honey, according to baker/co-owner Yael Matte) is shot through its centre. And that makes all the difference.

Hurry. Go. Now.

Cost: A loaf of Stollen is $17 and lasts a long time if you’re very disciplined about it. Or it can go in an afternoon.

True Loaf Bread Company, 573 Gladstone Ave., 613-680-4178.