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Food and Wine

THE DISH: Poutine for any budget

You want fries with that?

By Cindy Deachman

Sooner or later, poutine’s time had to come. First, its inception. Fries with gravy is a classic. Add cheese. Now revel in glory. Only a Québécois, though, would take to the province’s most beloved cheese — curds. Nowadays, one can’t get enough of poutine, and whether in Tokyo, Tel Aviv, or Memphis, put in your order. Of course, it didn’t take long for swanky establishments to exalt the lowly, turning the affair on its ear. After Montreal’s Au Pied du Cochon chef Martin Picard brilliantly topped it with foie gras, poutine would never again be the same.

This high-end version of poutine is from Le Café at the NAC. Photography by Rémi Thériault.

HIGH $13

Office morning out of control? Grab the $13 poutine lunch at Le Café — chef Michael Blackie’s rendition with pulled short ribs will bring you new life. Skinny fries are crispy and hot. The braised beef — in veal stock with mirepoix, brown sugar, and kecap manis — gives deep flavour. Creamy feta — from Clarmell Farms in Manotick — tastes clean, its saltiness matching the slight sweetness of the beef. Nothing more needed.

Le Café at the NAC, 613-594-5127,
53 Elgin St.,
www.nac-cna.ca.

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  • One of Ottawa’s Real Foodies

    I bet Michael Blackie’s poutine is out of this world. Totally tempted when you wrote that it comes with Clarmell Farm’s creamy feta cheese. I recently enjoyed Jamie Kennedy’s Braised Oxtail Poutine with Two Black River Cheddars at The Great Canadian Cheese Festival Cooks & Curds Gala in Picton. Likely a worthy rival on the High. http://ottawafood.blogspot.com/2011/06/cooks-curds-cheese-gala-at-1st-great.html

  • Dayanti Karunaratne

    Here’s a question for the foodie world: who sells poutine w. vegetarian gravy?

    (Sometimes I care. Othertimes I’m halfway through before I remember to ask!)

  • Mark Warburton

    Dayanti, I imagine a lot of places do vegetarian gravy. Searching ottawafoodies.com tells me that at the very least, Smoke’s Poutinerie and The Works do. ref: http://ottawafoodies.com/search?query=%22vegetarian+gravy%22

  • Dayanti Karunaratne

    Nice! I’ve been meaning to check out Smoke’s.

    (Last time I stopped into the other place I didn’t make it past the washrooms. Yikes!!)

  • Dina

    Yikes is right. Never mind that it’s also a rip-off.

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