City Bites

CRAFT BEER + ARTISAN CHEESE: Beau’s partners with Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese to create a new beer-washed rind cheese — just in time for the Great Canadian Cheese Festival

Shep Ysselstein, the owner and operator of Gunn's Hill Artisan Cheese has partnered with Beau's to make a beer washed-rind cheese that will change with the seasons .

I guess the monks in the Middle Ages knew something that many of us are just starting to figure out: beer and cheese taste great together.

Back in the day, artisan monks brewed beer and made cheese in monasteries for their communities. Typically washed rind cheeses are bathed in saltwater brine; the washing helps break down the curd from the outside. It’s fun to imagine the day the monks discovered that they could use beer to wash the rinds of cheese during the aging process to influence the texture, aroma, and flavour of the cheese.

Flash-forward to today, to a small cheese plant near Woodstock Ontario, where the next chapter in the history of beer washed-rind cheese is being written.

There, 30-year-old Shep Ysselstein, of Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese (located on his family’s third-generation dairy farm nestled in the rolling hills of Gunn’s Hill Rd. in Oxford County, Ontario — the Dairy Capital of Canada), has been working over the past few months to create a cheese using Vankleek Hill’s beloved brew, Beau’s.

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ANNE’S PICK: Anne DesBrisay learns to forage in Windsor Park

Amber Westfall offers both plant walks and workshops through her company The Wild Garden

By Anne DesBrisay

Walking in the weeds inWindsor Park

Amber Westfall is a weed eater. An hour in her instructive company and I was too — now unable to amble through an urban greenspace without salivating at the prospect of all those edibles underfoot.

Armed with a Hori Hori, a very cool Japanese knife/digging tool, and an encyclopaedic knowledge of the urban backyard’s bounty, Westfall led a “Jane’s Walk” last week through Windsor Park. We were a group of maybe 20, keen to hear about urban foraging — what are the weeds we walk on daily that can be used as food and medicine. It was very cool.

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WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Delivering on the promise of a real, big, messy burger at Beech St. Burger

The new Little Italy burger joint takes the Five Guys burger experience up a notch

Happy National Burger Month!

What — you didn’t mark your calendar?

Okay, technically it’s an American holiday, but I bet there are plenty of people in the National Capital Region who would be willing to join in the festivities. We do love a burger.

It’s no surprise to see new burger joints popping up like crazy, even as we gear up for the invasion of a new fleet of food trucks to help diversify the world of fast-food eating in this city. The burger trend is indeed mushrooming (mmmm, mushrooms are great on burgers) and shows no signs of burning out. Ottawa’s own burger chain, The Works, at 19 locations and counting, has apparently had about 600 franchise requests from across Canada. Holy cow!

I wish I could find some local statistics on our burger consumption habits, but I suspect we’re in line with the results of a recent foodservice consultancy survey of more than 2,250 online US and Canadian consumer: it revealed that 91% of people that responded said they eat a burger at least once a month, and 44% said they consume burgers at least once a week. The report claims: “burgers are one of the hottest trends on today’s dining scene.”

Again, no surprises there.

I had TWO burgers last week. Both of them were from the new Little Italy gem, Beech St. Burger.

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City Bites

IN DIGESTION: Best bites from Ottawa’s 17th annual Bon Appetit

As a first-time attendee of Bon Appetit, I appreciated the relaxed and hospitable ambiance of the food and wine show that took place on Tuesday evening. It was a stark contrast to the intensity of other endless-grazing events like Gold Medal Plates in which the chefs are competing to create the best dishes of the night.

The ox tongue pastrami was brined for 2 weeks, smoked for 16 hours and steamed for 3 hours; topped with Juniper Farms sauerkraut, Gruyere sauce, Russian dressing on Rideau Bakery ry

Not just a welcome relief from bun-centric slider overload, this dish hit all the right notes: fresh, crunchy, spicy and light. I didn't want it to end.

Still, I couldn’t help but to rank some of my favourites bites of the night:

GOLD: It’s a tie between…

Les Fougeres‘ tandoori-spiced grain-fed mini chicken burger served on spring salad with fresh herbs and peanuts (left)

…and Social’s ox tongue Reuben on rye (right).

 

 

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City Bites

FOOD-FUNDING 101: Local food entrepreneurs want you to put your money where your mouth is

Farmer Rosemary Kralik is using crowdfunding to save her farm from foreclosure

Crowdfunding — the popular method of online fundraising for startups — is becoming the next major financial model for entrepreneurs. Kickstarter is the biggest platform, but there are dozens of clones, imitators, and innovators helping little guys get the cash they need for everything from the making of indie films and funny T-shirts to self-publishing novels and creating a line of hats for cats.

But what about helping a young chef pay for his new food cart or helping a lone farmer buy enough hay for a herd of yak to last until the pasture grows?

Yes, there’s crowdfunding for that.

WHO: ROSEMARY KRALIK, farmer, Tiraislin Farm

GOAL: $26,000

CROWDFUNDING: GO FUND ME

When Oz Kafe chef Jamie Stunt won the Canadian Culinary Championships with a dish featuring succulent yak meat from Ottawa Valley’s Tiraislin Farm, the nation’s culinary elite were introduced to the extraordinary work of 68-year-old farmer, Rosemary Kralik.

Known to her customers at the Ottawa Farmer’s Market affectionately as “The Yak Lady”, Kralik lovingly raises Tibetan yak among dozens of other species free to roam on her property. In order to pay the bills, Kralik has increasingly had to rely on her artistic talent — painting and drawing, creating portraits of animals and humans on commission — after a series of unexpected events over the last few months threatened the survival of her farm. There was drought, rising costs of hay, vet bills for an injured dog, and tractor repair costs.

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City Bites

FOOD TRUCK FEVER: Taste the trucks! Wednesday, May 8, 12-1:30 p.m. at City Hall; plus the owner of Relish reveals his Top 5 tips for new mobile vendors

Samples of boa (Asian steamed, filled buns) from the Gongfu boa cart are being prepared in the kitchen at the Piggy Market. Owner Tarek Hassan is making 250 mini-buns for Wednesday's launch.

Are you ready for a taste of some of Ottawa’s new food truck menus? Come to City Hall on Wednesday for the official launch of the new generation of street food vendors. Philip Powell, the City administrator of the new licenses, confirmed the launch is on, but he didn’t say which trucks and carts would be in attendance.

I get the sense that several of the new vendors are scrambling to put everything into place to launch their businesses this month. They have had just a few months from the time they got the green light back in February to the time they are expected to hit the streets. As the appetite for street food builds to a frenzy, some truck-owners are experiencing natural delays related to equipment and permits.

But the show must go on. The trucks and carts that are ready will roll on over to City Hall this Wednesday with samples galore.

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FOOD FIGHT: A shocking lesson on how lunchtime is governed in Ontario schools

This story appears in the April edition of Ottawa Magazine. Click here to order the back issue or an online edition

By Shawna Wagman

“Why didn’t you eat your carrots?” I ask my daughter as I unpack the soggy leftovers from her lunch box after school. She shrugs, not bothering to feign shame. She says that there wasn’t enough time. And that all the other kids have fruit bars, cheese strings, and tubes of yogourt. It’s the age-old battle between parents and kids who won’t eat their vegetables, and I’m reminded that it boils down to control. Those slimy cucumbers have a way of shouting, “You are not the boss of me!”

Illustration by Graham Ross.

So I get it: the lunch box is fraught. How could it not be? The proverbial brown bag has been replaced by high-tech phthalate- and lead-free insulated carriers. It’s filled with more than crustless sandwiches and mini-muffins. School lunches are packed with politics, exposing how we react to the pressures of busy lives, long commutes, and the allure of cheap processed foods.

For parents, packing lunch is a daunting daily task, a test of personal fortitude. Like a demon disguised as a yogourt tube, it stares me down each morning as I struggle to match lids to containers and come up with a temperature-controlled, litterless, nut-free, allergy-sensitive, non-leaking, yummy yet nutritious portable picnic. I try not to beat myself up when the occasional nutritionally void Goldfish cracker swims into the box. I’ll do better tomorrow, I tell myself. Maybe I’ll try carving the cucumbers into little bunnies like the ones I saw on a Mommy blog.

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WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: The salad roll days of summer at Chez Bien

Lots of Vietnamese restaurants make their salad rolls ahead. At Chez Bien, they're made to order — and that makes all the difference.

By Anne DesBrisay

Chef Bien of Chez Bien used to cook in Italian restaurants on Preston Street. My first visit was lunch, but if you come back for dinner (recommended) you should give his Asian marinated lamb (lemongrass, ginger, garlic, star anise) served with Italian style roast potatoes (rosemary, garlic, olive oil) a try. Pretty successful fusion fare!

But on the first summer-like days of the year thoughts naturally turn to summer rolls. Goi Cuon, also called salad rolls, of softened rice paper circles wrapped around grilled meat, greens, vegetables, noodles and fresh herbs. Lots of Vietnamese restaurants make these, and make them ahead. At Chez Bien, they’re made to order and that makes all the difference.

The grilled pork is warm and fragrant, the vermicelli at room temperature, the vegetables fresh and crunchy in their sweet and sour marinade, while the chopped mint lends a burst of summery vigour to the package.

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CAPITAL PINT: Charting Big Rig’s monstrous success — awards, a new growler, and LCBO glory

Capital Pint by Travis Persaud is generally published every second Thursday at OttawaMagazine.com. Follow Travis on Twitter @tpersaud.

Big Rig launches Big Rig Gold at the LCBO next week.

Big Rig Brewery is truckin’ along faster than even they imagined.

Last week the Ottawa brewpub, about a month shy of its first anniversary, walked away with four Ontario Brewing Awards — gold for their Champion Pilsner, silver for their Schwarzbier, bronze for their Big Rig Gold, and Newcomer of the Year.

“Awards schmawards!,” brewmaster Lon Ladell said before the awards were announced. “It’s all about the creative side for me, making beer the way I feel it should taste. Then I get to see people drinking it, and they’re happy. That’s what it’s about for me.”

After the big win, however, Ladell expressed nothing but gratitude, mentioning the awards were nice but winning new brewery of the year was the big highlight. The moment acted as a natural break for Ladell, allowing him a breather before the oncoming whirlwind.

This week they released a special growler in support of Ride For Dad, and next week you’ll find Big Rig at the LCBO. “We’ll be in 25 LCBOs in Ottawa,” Ladell says. “We’re going in with our Big Rig Gold in the 6x355mL format. Ottawa only has one other microbrewery in the LCBO right now [Kichesippi], so it’s exciting to be here as the market is exploding.”

Although the market is exploding, it’s still in its infancy compared to Victoria, B.C. where Ladell is from. Known for his brewing days at Spinnakers, a well-regarded brewery and Canada’s oldest brewpub, he spent 17 years directly involved with the beer and restaurant industry in Victoria. And then he moved to Ottawa in 2010.

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City Bites

EXCLUSIVE SNEAK PEEK: Bottles of Harvey & Vern’s, Ottawa’s own soda pop — coming soon to a shoppe near you

When word got around that Paul Meek, the face of local brew darling Kichisippi Beer Co., was in the process of starting up a line of “olde fashioned” soda called Harvey & Vern’s — let’s just say the city’s gourmet geeks were like kids in a candy store.

Make no mistake. There’s no alcohol in this relatively wholesome product, aimed at adults. While the reputation of mega-pop brands like Coke are under tremendous scrutiny these days for contributing to obesity and other ill-health conditions, Meek says the message is — if you’re going to drink soda, you want it to be all-natural.

He admits they weren’t legally allowed to call the product “all-natural,” so the bottles tout another one of its virtues: Canadian Original.

For food business owners like Ben Baird who just launched a food truck, Ottawa Streat Gourmet, the idea of serving locally-made, natural cane sugar-sweetened cream soda and ginger beer (the first two flavours in the line) just hit the spot.”I’m very happy to serve a product that is made with integrity of ingredients,” says Baird. The fact that these sodas contain no high fructose corn syrup — the devil of our food system —impressed him the most.

 

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