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WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: A delightful club sandwich at Hintonburg Public House (shame about the price)

HPH's club sandwich is a superior rendition of the classic — well seasoned, incredibly moist chicken, with yummy bacon, tomato, lettuce, a full flavoured aioli on lightly toasted white bread.

By Anne DesBrisay

Although it’s been a few years since the culinary gentrification of this corner of the city began in earnest, it still must be startling for Hintonburg’s old timers to see the steady flow of well-dressed uptowners stopping in for a bite — to see Volvos where Volvos never parked before.

I’m trying to remember the order of things. It seems to me Tennessy Willems, Burnt Butter, Alpha Soul, and Back Lane launched the foodie revolution in this hood. Then came this place, the Hintonburg Public House, shortly thereafter in late 2011.

I have been a few times to the HPH for an evening meal, but hadn’t stopped in for lunch. So I found a friend — whose Volvo has heated seats necessary for an unneccessarily cold day in June — and remedied this.

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  |  June 17, 2013 at 8:40 am

ANNE’S PICKS: Talking nuts and fruits (and community action) with Hidden Harvest Ottawa

Serviceberries in bloom. Hidden Harvest, a local organization that believes our city should plant and harvest more edible trees, wants Ottawans to use this produce more effectively

By Anne DesBrisay

When your serviceberry blooms in early spring it’s best to call in sick. Spend the day camped beside it,  staring, slack-jawed, at the stunning cloud of glimmering white blossoms in front of you, cause it won’t last. These babies flower for about 10 minutes. But lordy, what a show!

They look like tiny gardenia on delicate, wispy branching. And then, poof, gone. But wait, just wait… come July, there’s deep purple berries to pick, pastry to roll out and pies to make. My Saskatchewan friends call them Saskatoonberries, and if you have any prairie roots, so do you.

I planted two Serviceberries a few years ago, keen to introduce more native plants to my garden. When poking around the Main Street Farmers’ Market a few weeks ago, I discovered the Hidden Harvest stand, got chatting with Katrina Siks, its co-founder, and was happy to hear I had done right in putting in these trees.

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  |  June 10, 2013 at 9:45 am

WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Working near Dows Lake/Little Italy? Stop by for Morning Owl’s panini

Tucked between a 12 grain Art-is-in bun, a thick slab of Owl-made porchetta as well as asparagus, bacon, mustard, rosemary, and parmigiano

By Anne DesBrisay

I have long been green with envy over the MO’s retro orange fridge. In fact, I looked into acquiring one for my kitchen after my very first Morning Owl visit, but decided I’d have to give up my espresso habit if I were ever to afford it. So I settled for a dull and ordinary fridge that does the job but gives me no pleasure. But I climb the stairs of this place for a great cup of coffee and a crusty scone often enough that I feel some kinship with that Big Chill machine and for now, that will have to do.

Last week I had a Morning Owl panini for the first time. Tucked between a 12 grain Art-is-in bun (purchased now at Farm Boy, as Aii no longer sells its bread wholesale) was a thick slab of Owl-made porchetta stuffed with asparagus, bacon, mustard, rosemary, and parmigiano.

The meat was roasted up moist and juicy, the asparagus still had some spine to it, and the flavour was bold and big. As for the rest —  lettuce, tomato, a smear of pesto mayo, a bit more dijon, all delivered by that great seedy bun — it was a sandwich to brighten a rainy day, enjoyed fully and thoroughly in a great little place with a very fine fridge.

Cost: paninis all cost $7

Open: Monday to Friday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Morning Owl Coffehouse, 583 Rochester St., 613-680-8336.

  |  June 10, 2013 at 8:34 am

ROAD-TRIP FIND: A profile / review of Almonte Riverside Kitchen

Chef Trish Donaldson has settled in Almonte, and is working with innkeeper Rob Prior in a pretty little back kitchen known as ARK. Photography by Amelia Johnston

After stints at Black Cat Bistro and Pelican Grill, chef Trisha Donaldson has settled Almonte Riverside Kitchen, wooing guests with her gorgeous gnocchi and poached pears (among other fine dishes)

This story appears in the May edition of Ottawa Magazine. Click here to order the back issue or an online edition. 

By Anne DesBrisay

Perched on the Mississippi River, the mighty tributary that once powered the town’s woollen mills, this new Almonte inn has a 130-year history of housing prominent citizens (even when it wasn’t functioning as a home).

There have been other residents: the Almonte Armouries, for one, which turned the living room into a drill hall and the bedrooms into bars. And before construction of the Diefenbunker, this Queen Anne-style mansion acted as a repository for communications and transmission equipment in the event of nuclear war, its double stone foundation designated as the fallout shelter of choice for the PM and his people.

Yes, indeed, 81 Queen Street has had a fascinating life of service. And it continues to serve. Since opening last December, the Almonte Riverside Boutique Inn, in addition to offering some lovely rooms, has added a dinner service. But though the Riverside Kitchen may be new, its chef is a familiar face.

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  |  June 3, 2013 at 10:30 am

WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Don’t miss lobster season at May’s Garden Restaurant

It's lobster season! Fresh lobster with ginger and onion at May's Garden Restaurant in Chinatown/Little Italy

By Anne DesBrisay

It’s lobster season: time to walk around town with a bib on, ’cause you just never know when the craving for the red backed crustacean’s gonna bite.

It had been my plan to check out May’s weekday lunch deal — but the offerings seemed a bit ordinary — and I happened to spy the notice of specials on the white board.

The only item written in english read “fresh lobster with ginger and onion or spicy” —Market Price. I asked the price. Twenty dollars and ninety five cents. Sold.

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  |  June 3, 2013 at 9:10 am

ANNE’S PICK: Swoon-worthy tea — the story behind Kimicha’s award-winning Jin Jun Mei, a pure black lapsang Souchong tea

Kimiko is a certified tea specialist, teacher, taster, blender, owner of Kimicha Teas, and founder of the Ottawa Tea Festival

By Anne DesBrisay

It means ‘beautiful eyebrow’ when translated from Japanese and I’m on my fourth cup from a third steep. The first steep was brewed yesterday afternoon. I left the spent tea leaves in the pot on the kitchen counter and three times now, have poured boiled (cooled to 80° C water — not just-boiled water: there’s a difference don’t ya know…) over the leafy brown mash. I allowed the brew to steep two minutes (as per directions) and then poured out another coppery cup.

There’s not a titch of bitterness and the flavour  — smooth, toasted, a bit honey-sweet, and all-comfort in the finish —  just keeps on giving.

Kimiko Uriu assured me this tea would — that I could, in fact, get seven steeps out of the leaves, but I suppose I didn’t believe her. You might say I raised my eyebrow at the idea. But she was quite right, and I have found my perfect afternoon tea: gentle and forgiving.

Kimiko is a Certified Tea Specialist, teacher, taster, blender, owner of Kimicha Teas and founder of the Ottawa Tea Festival. I’m drinking her award-winning Jin Jun Mei, a pure black lapsang Souchong tea made from the young, early Spring buds (only buds) harvested on the stony slopes of Wuyi Mountain in China.

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  |  May 27, 2013 at 10:30 am

WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: Attacking The Table’s lunch buffet with gusto

"What had started out as a careful, cost-cutting approach to The Table's buffet turned into a full-steam-ahead and damn the weigh scale attack on its hot and cold offerings"

By Anne DesBrisay

Unpitted olives, as much as I craved them right then, right there, I walked right on by. I figured they’d weigh me down and spike the bill. Instead, I headed for the baby spinach salad. Light and breezy stuff.

And then I dabbled with a bit of kale and swiss chard (heavier greens, to be sure, but worth their weight in gold). The organic tofu fritters beckoned — mostly for the vegan, gluten-free onion chutney that made them seem edible — and so did the cornmeal crumble with rosemary and roasted parsnips and all that crusty-gooey cheesey goodness on top.

A bit further along The Table‘s offerings was the pan of roasted vegies — mostly onions, charred peppers, and purple skinned eggplant — and on they came. The all-veggie jambalaya promised a bit of heat (and delivered) so that was scooped, and from the cold section, an arame seaweed salad (vegan/g-f) with snow pea shoots. Finally, a healthy dollop of the g-f house hummus. No bread though.

What had started out as a careful, cost-cutting approach to The Table’s buffet turned into a full-steam-ahead and damn the weigh scale attack on its hot and cold offerings.

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  |  May 21, 2013 at 9:00 am

ANNE’S PICK: Anne DesBrisay learns to forage in Windsor Park

Amber Westfall offers both plant walks and workshops through her company The Wild Garden

By Anne DesBrisay

Walking in the weeds inWindsor Park

Amber Westfall is a weed eater. An hour in her instructive company and I was too — now unable to amble through an urban greenspace without salivating at the prospect of all those edibles underfoot.

Armed with a Hori Hori, a very cool Japanese knife/digging tool, and an encyclopaedic knowledge of the urban backyard’s bounty, Westfall led a “Jane’s Walk” last week through Windsor Park. We were a group of maybe 20, keen to hear about urban foraging — what are the weeds we walk on daily that can be used as food and medicine. It was very cool.

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  |  May 13, 2013 at 10:00 am

WEEKLY LUNCH PICK: The salad roll days of summer at Chez Bien

Lots of Vietnamese restaurants make their salad rolls ahead. At Chez Bien, they're made to order — and that makes all the difference.

By Anne DesBrisay

Chef Bien of Chez Bien used to cook in Italian restaurants on Preston Street. My first visit was lunch, but if you come back for dinner (recommended) you should give his Asian marinated lamb (lemongrass, ginger, garlic, star anise) served with Italian style roast potatoes (rosemary, garlic, olive oil) a try. Pretty successful fusion fare!

But on the first summer-like days of the year thoughts naturally turn to summer rolls. Goi Cuon, also called salad rolls, of softened rice paper circles wrapped around grilled meat, greens, vegetables, noodles and fresh herbs. Lots of Vietnamese restaurants make these, and make them ahead. At Chez Bien, they’re made to order and that makes all the difference.

The grilled pork is warm and fragrant, the vermicelli at room temperature, the vegetables fresh and crunchy in their sweet and sour marinade, while the chopped mint lends a burst of summery vigour to the package.

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  |  May 6, 2013 at 8:52 am

TRY THIS: Anne DesBrisay discovers the ultimate vanilla extract — sold out of a little bakery on the edge of Chinatown

The vanilla from Macarons et Madeleines is aged eight months, made with beans from the Madagascar region infused in vodka

By Anne DesBrisay

The really good stuff. Vanilla extract from Stephan Ethier of Macarons et Madeleines.

I bought a pretty bottle of liquid vanilla when I was in the French patisserie Macarons et Madeleines, looking for a pick-me-up pain aux raisins for elevenses. (See Anne’s Pick of May 31, 2012). And then – zut alors! –  as I am homeward bound with my treasures in my car the bottle rolled off the passenger seat, smashing onto a ceramic tile sample I had left on the car floor in wait for its return to Home Depot.

The vanilla lid broke, the extract began oozing out and, as I pulled over to rescue it, I got a ticket for pausing in a bus lane during OC Transpo-only hours. No amount of truth telling convinced the officer.

Though I am convinced she did look longingly at my pain aux raisins before commenting on the smell, which was quite boozy.

It is possible I got off lightly…

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  |  April 29, 2013 at 10:00 am

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